The Précis: 20th January 2018

The new year is in full swing and the fashion industry is back to its rapid pace with plenty of newsworthy details being leaked every week. From collaborations to conversations to accusations, there is plenty of news to dissect. Unfortunately, the climate of sexual assault allegations which heated up last fall continued into 2018 with new reports coming out weekly. The fashion industry had remained mum on the subject for a little while but with the latest round of rumors, it is impossible to turn a blind eye any longer.

“Male models say Mario Testino and Bruce Weber sexually assaulted them” – The New York Times
The Bruce Weber allegations came out last year. He was “cancelled” for a lot of people who read the stories shared by the young male models who had been subject to his behavior. The New York Times article published last week just further solidified the claims. A new name, Mario Testino, was added into the mix. It’s sad to hear this because these men are two of fashion’s most prominent photographers who have shot everybody from models to the royal family, yet they have been behaving in an immoral way for decades and got away with it up until now. I feel like it has taken so long for the stories to break about these two photographers because of their friends in high places (literally every fashion magazine has worked with the pair at some stage) and the fact that they don’t look like your typical creep. Terry Richardson was almost too easy to bring down due to the fact that he looked like a sleazebag so it was easier for the allegations to stick. With Testino and Weber, some of fashion’s big names can’t seem to give up on them. In response to the New York Times exposé, Condé Nast revealed new guidelines for conduct on photoshoots (models will never be left alone with photographers, makeup artists etc.) and announced that they were not planning to work with either photographer for the foreseeable future.

“Alexander Wang to drop out of NYFW and follow pre-collection schedule” Fashionista


It seems as though New York Fashion Week will soon be no more. Each season, another brand drops out to either show in another city or show at a different time. In the previous few years, New York has suffered some high profile losses like Proenza Schouler and Altuzarra. Now, the unthinkable has happened: Alexander Wang is changing schedule and skipping fashion week, starting after February. In a new move, it was announced that Alexander Wang will be showing in June and December instead of February and September. Yes, it’s only one brand but the knock-on effects will likely be tremendous. In five years time, I predict fashion will be operating on an entirely different schedule than it currently does. The see-now, buy-now trend sparked the change and this move has only further solidified the fact that the traditional calendar is just not working anymore. Brands are revolting and refusing to stick to it, and now retailers are going to be left with no other option other than keep up with the changes.

Capsule Wardrobes and Bundles

The concept of the capsule wardrobe is nothing new. For years women have been told to simplify their lives and build a closet around a few staple pieces. However, the concept is hard to buy into simply because it seems boring. Imagine only owning a few pieces and wearing a variation of the same outfit every day?

Christine Centenera and Josh Goot, the Australian stylist/designer duo and couple who are most known for their association with Kanye West, have come up with a new take on the concept. They have launched a clothing line called Wardrobe.NYC, a direct-to-consumer e-commerce site which sells four or eight piece capsule collections for both men and women.

The concept is great. Basically, you choose between the four piece option which includes a blazer, shirt, t-shirt, and skirt (for women’s) or the eight piece option which includes the aforementioned pieces plus a coat, a knit, a blouse, and a pair of leggings. The items are cute, all work perfectly together, but could also be worn separately and mixed with other items in your wardrobe. The four piece retails for $1500 whereas the eight piece retails for $3000. The men’s versions retail for the same price. Interestingly enough, they claim that there is no retail markup on the products meaning they are selling them at wholesale cost. None of the items can be purchased individually, meaning you have to buy the entire bundle.

Another instance where the bundle model was in place was for the newest drop of Kanye West’s Yeezy shoe. It was touted as a way to beat the resale market, forcing people to buy an entire tracksuit instead of just the sneakers. The price point was around $760, with the sneakers themselves only having a $200 value. The first resellers to buy the bundle and list the sneakers online didn’t know how to price them. Initially they priced too high and the sneakers didn’t move, unlike in every other previous Yeezy drop where they have sold out instantly and then sell online on the resale market straight afterwards.

It is telling that Wardrobe.NYC and Yeezy chose to follow a similar model as Christine Centenera is long-rumored to be the woman behind Kim Kardashian’s minimalist makeover. She is a long-time collaborator of Kanye West, often serving as a consultant for his Yeezy shows. It makes me wonder if the two of them discuss the business strategy too and came up with this idea together. Kanye is supposed to work with a lot of Australians on his brand, according to an article from The Sydney Morning Herald. I hope to hear a lot more about this brand and wish it all the success in the world because I think it’s a really fun concept and if you have the money to spend on luxe staples, why not get it all in one place?

Further reading

Kanye West May Have Finally Outsmarted the Resale Market – GQ

Christine Centenera and Josh Goot Get Into the Direct-to-consumer Retail Game With Wardrobe.NYC – Fashionista

Aussies: the Secret to Kanye West’s Success – The Sydney Morning Herald

Wardrobe.NYC Capsule Collections

The Précis: 13th January 2018

New year, new title! As I mentioned in last Saturday’s post, my blog is in a slightly transitional phase and the renaming of the weekly words series is just one of the many changes that I am making: enter, the précis. Précis, meaning summary or synopsis, is the new name of my weekly series as I figured it was really a roundup of some of the newsworthy stories of the week and précis sounds a little more elegant. I hope you enjoy the new name.

Victoria’s Secret Sales Declined Every Single Month Last Year – Fashionista.com


In an unsurprising announcement, L Brands, the parent company of Victoria’s Secret reported declining sales of 5% to 14% each month compared to 2016. It may seem that Victoria’s Secret is the go-to stop for lingerie but much of their hype comes from their annual fashion show, which was largely considered disastrous last year, and from their models’, angels’, own social media followings. The online attention doesn’t always translate into sales and the newly released figures proves this. VS changed their product offerings a couple of years ago, cutting the hugely popular swimwear division and focusing on activewear instead. The move away from swim was met with much disappointment from consumers and VS’ sales have been declining since.

Personally, I can’t imagine things getting any better for Victoria’s Secret unless they vastly change their products. Their brand of sexy is just not cool anymore. As a company that is trying to capture the wallets of young girls (as young as tweens, with the PINK division), they are out of touch with what young girls want. Young people do not wear lingerie and padded bras anymore; they wear bralets, which VS does sell but at higher prices than competitors in that area. The women of the age who would be interested in buying the kind of underwear sold by Victoria’s Secret is often sized out of the store due to the miniscule size range normally available in stores – if you have very small or very large boobs, try somewhere else – plus the fact that the underwear only goes up to size XL and definitely runs small (according to their size chart an XL is a US 16, average women’s size is 16-18 across the country). It will be interesting to monitor VS’ performance over the course of 2018 to see if they make any noticeable changes to their branding or how they market their products as I also feel like this could change their fate long term.

The Weeknd Cuts Ties With H&M Over ‘Deeply Offensive’ Photo – Rolling Stone

from The Weeknd’s official Twitter account

If you didn’t already hear about it, H&M posted a product on their site that received hefty (and deserved) criticism online. The product in question was a kids hoodie with “coolest monkey in the jungle” printed on it. The hoodie in question was worn by a black child, prompting outcries of racism. I struggle to understand how this product got through so many stages of development without anybody flagging it as a potential issue. It takes many people to make a product live on a website and I can’t believe that nobody raised this as an issue. The Weeknd has a clothing collaboration with the fast-fashion retailer but after seeing the news online, he announced that he would not be working with the store any longer. G-Eazy, who has a similar deal, said the same thing. Pressure has been building for Nicki Minaj to make a similar statement, but as of now she has remained quiet.

I was glad to see people quickly condemning H&M over this product and it was nice to see celebrities putting their money where their mouth is and actually pull out of partnerships that no longer align with their values. It means forfeiting a paycheck for them, but in the long run what even is that to people who are making multi-millions annually? People have called for a boycott of the Swedish retailer but that will likely not happen. People tend to be all talk and no action when it comes to things like that. H&M released a statement earlier this week apologizing for their actions. I just really don’t understand how things like this continue to happen: it’s 2018.

Golden Globes 2018

The Golden Globes red carpet experienced a blackout this year, and in the best way possible. Stars joined together in solidarity for women who have been sexually assaulted, a topic that has been in the news almost daily since last fall when the Harvey Weinstein scandal broke. Many have shushed the celebrities, saying that wearing black is really the least they can do, but if you’re going to minimize every action that a person takes then how are you contributing positively to the conversation? The point of everyone wearing black was to continue the conversation on sexual assault and inequality and that was definitely achieved.

From a sartorial standpoint, I love black. It is the most chic color and really looks good on everybody. As a New York resident (but not yet a New Yorker, I hear there’s a date requirement on that…), black is practically my daily uniform and I never tire of the color. I often look at red carpet looks and say “oh, it would be nicer in black”. The Golden Globes then provided me with my dream red carpet, where everyone was dressed exactly as I’d desire. I’m just going to ignore the two actresses who chose not to wear black because their reasons for doing so can be roughly conflated with wanting attention all in the name of “female empowerment”. Instead, let me focus on the positives and all of the amazingly dressed stars. What a way to kick off award season!

Catherine Zeta Jones in Zuhair Murad
Tracee Ellis Ross in Marc Jacobs (side note: I want to see her in one of his colorful turbans at some point too)
Issa Rae in Prabal Gurung
Zoe Kravitz in Saint Laurent
Mariah Carey in Dolce & Gabbana
Angelina Jolie in Versace
Geena Davis in Monique Lhuillier

Weekly Words: 6th January 2018

Welcome to the first post that I’ve actually written in 2018!

You may have noticed that I have made some changes on the blog. First of all, and most noticeable, is that I have changed the url from katemossforpresident.wordpress.com to evegardiner.com. I figured that instead of just paying for a url and not using it, I should make the switch to something a little more permanent and polished than a regular WordPress domain. Thus, evegardiner.com was born.

Since I am now self-hosted, I have a lot more options in terms of customizing the site and I plan to utilize these extra options available to me over the next few weeks when I’m going to work on making some changes. It is taking me forever and a day to work out how to do this because my coding skills have definitely dropped off in the past few years, but I am hoping that by the end of January things look a little cleaner. I have already added a new about and contact page, plus changed the theme so feel free to check that out if you’re interested.

Some other things that I want to do are:
Make a consistent posting schedule. Currently, I post on Wednesdays & Saturdays. I think that works for me in terms of how much content I can produce (that I’m actually happy to post) and keeps things fresh. On Saturdays, it will be a weekly words post just like the regular ones (featuring news from the week, sort of like a newsletter almost) but I am currently in the process of thinking of a new name for the series. I will add a new category for the site once I rename it. The mid-week post will be a longer post most likely, but may be image-heavy if there is an editorial that I’d like to feature. Also, as I’ve done for the past couple of years, I will continue to post a fashion flashback on the 1st of the month (even if that clashes with another post).

Revamp the categories and make them less specific. A lot of my posts fall under the same category and some categories are under-utilized. I think it would be better if I kept things broader and cross-tagged posts so they fall into multiple places.

I hope you all had a fantastic holiday season and are feeling positive about the year ahead! I am excited to see what 2018 brings.

FASHION

CELEBRITY & RED CARPET / COMMENTARY / FASHION SHOWS / FASHION WEEK/ IMAGERY & VISUALS / SHOPPING / THE COMMUNIQUE

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THE PRECIS

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MUSINGS

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CINEMA & TELEVISION

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BEAUTY

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