Tag: Burberry

Weekly Words: 4th November 2017

This week’s news has been about a series of departures, yet again. Fashion’s continuous game of musical chairs claims another participant with Christopher Bailey leaving Burberry after close to two decades. On top of that, the print magazine industry continues to suffer with Condé Nast shuttering Teen Vogue, making it a digital only operation. Ah, yet another week in the tumultuous climate which we call fashion.

“Burberry Plots Life After Bailey” – Business of Fashion

A look from the Fall 2017 see-now, buy-now collection.

Christopher Bailey, most famous for reviving Burberry and changing its image from one giving connotations of “chav check” to British luxury, is departing from his roles at the company. He was one of the first designers to simultaneously be President and Creative Director of a brand, showing that creatives can do the business side of things to – Alexander Wang did a similar thing at his own company. Bailey’s reasons for departing were not clear, besides wanting to pursue new things, and he will remain at the company for a little over a year still whilst they recruit a new Creative Director and undergo a period of transition. The Business of Fashion article linked above is interesting because it presents an analysis of what Burberry could do to grow the business after Bailey leaves. I’d recommend reading it over some other articles on the topic which were more of a news blast.

“Condé Nast Kills Teen Vogue’s Print Edition” – The Cut

EIC Elaine Welteroth for the New York Times.

The news that Condé Nast was killing Teen Vogue’s print edition could not be more frustrating or unwelcome, for the reason that Teen Vogue is a much better magazine than many of the titles which Condé Nast continues to publish. Instead of hitting the kill button right away, they could’ve switched it to a bi-annual title like CR Fashion Book and made it a thicker magazine. Since 2016, Teen Vogue’s digital content has gained more and more traction so I understand why they think that this is the best move, but given that millennials have stated time and time again that they like having paper magazines, why cut the millennial and gen-z focused title? It is also sad because star EIC Elaine Welteroth deserves a platform to shine. I wonder where she will go next?

The shuttering of Teen Vogue’s print coincides with a larger restructuring mission within Condé Nast. They are cutting jobs and changing many of their titles’ publishing schedules, with just a few being left as monthlies. I guess we all knew that the rise of the internet would lead to the decline of print media, and that is ok. Some magazines don’t need to be monthly. In fact, quarterly would work for most titles as long as they increased the quality of their content to suit the new format. What is not ok is moving titles to digital only and then not keeping up the quality online. Many magazines don’t treat their websites with the same level of care and attention as they do their print editions. Articles are often click-baity, filler and puff-pieces (especially about Insta-famous celebrities who they think can generate clicks from young, adoring fans), or shopping listicles. At least Teen Vogue has a solid online presence that will continue to define the brand after their print edition ceases to exist.

 

 

 

15 Looks Nicki Minaj Should Wear From The Spring 2016 Collections

Nicki Minaj is a queen. I truly mean that. I feel like she’s someone whose popularity is continuing to soar and I’m so happy about that. Something that I think has boosted her fame is her image overhaul which began around the time she joined American Idol. She stopped wearing the colourful wigs, wild make-up, and out-there outfits, and toned her look down – natural hair, more “normal” make-up, and a mix of high-end designer and fast-fashion clothes. To put it simply, she had a make-under. Whilst I do miss her old sense of style (it was so fun), I think she looks amazing now. For example, the VMA dress was a killer.

I find it fun to try and predict what Nicki is going to wear next, especially because she attends a few fashion shows nowadays and actually works with a brilliant stylist, Rushka Bergman, to create her red-carpet/event looks. There are a few designers who she clearly favours: the Alexanders (Wang & McQueen), namely. I’ll choose looks from designers I know she likes and also ones which I think she would like to be introduced to. I’m going to pick 15 different designers and select looks from their shows which I think she should wear (yes, I’m totally cheating with this post title). When I did this before, I actually got a couple looks spot-on that she wore. I wonder if the same will happen this time.

Also, on the topic of Nicki, read this NY Times profile – it’s amazing.

Jeremy Scott

Nicki used to wear a lot of Jeremy Scott back in the days when she used to dress more kooky and she still does wear a lot of his designs for Moschino. I think she would look great in this checkerboard cardigan, mixed and matched with this printed bikini. I think this would work great for a music video.

Givenchy

Another brand that Nicki seems to be rather fond of, Givenchy is a show which she actually attended in New York (wearing the designer head-to-toe, naturally). There were quite a few looks which stood out to me and I think would work, depending on the occasion. The first would be the dress which Joan Smalls wore – the black gown with the full skirt and fur – which I think would only be appropriate for a grand red carpet event (Oscars, Grammys, Met Gala) but I’m not sure there’s anything coming up soon that this would suit. The cross-over top and skirt combination that Pooja Mor wore would work well for a more casual event, however it isn’t often that you see Nicki in that type of neckline. Finally, I think that the feathered jacket with the bejewelled top and trousers would look insane. Nicki doesn’t often wear trousers to events but I think this could look great. Conversely, the trousers could easily be swapped out for a black pencil skirt. I’d go for Stuart Weitzman’s Nudist shoes in black with all of these looks.

Zac Posen

I’m not sure that Nicki has even worn a lot of Zac Posen but I wish she would – a ball gown would look fabulous. However, the look that I am going to suggest is the black bandeau strapless dress with the full skirt and slight tiers. I think this would look amazing if she had her hair down in a centre-part, a dark red or wine lip, and pointed black suede heels (Manolo Blahnik or Jimmy Choo perhaps).

Burberry

There’s three different looks that I think could work from the Burberry show. The first is the long dress with the full skirt and sheer panels. I think Nicki would wear this firstly because it has transparent sections and therefore it would show off her insane body, and secondly because she has favoured a fuller skirt in the past. I’d also like to see her wear this black coat with gold details. I think this would work for a casual look (perhaps paired with some items from Fashion Nova, a store that she seems to love nowadays). Finally, I think this short taupe dress would work well. As I said before, she used to wear full skirts quite often and this one reminds me of Alexander McQueen dresses which she has been seen wearing before. I think the details on this are so pretty too.

Moschino

As I said before, Nicki likes Moschino. I think it’s a bit of a throwback to the wild outfits she wore when she was first blowing up. I think she’d buy these two t-shirt dresses because they’re both rather funny (the second being a Chanel-logo parody, another brand she’s fond of), maybe the boots, and also this coat. The coat reminded me of the one she wore for a Casio event in New York back in 2012.

Monique Lhuillier

The only time I can remember Nicki wearing Monique Lhuillier before was at the AMAs a few years ago when she wore the bright yellow gown – it was quite a moment. This look I’ve chosen is more casual than a full-on gown. On the runway it is styled with a white top underneath but I propose we remove that and just have the floral crop-top and skirt instead. This is a look that I really really really want to see her in because I can just imagine it looking so brilliant.

Christian Dior

Now that we know that this is Raf’s final collection for Dior, I feel that Nicki needs to wear something from the collection. I mean, who knows what the next collection will be like or who the hell will be designing it? Maybe the floral set was an omen that I missed – taking it full circle. I chose this simple jacket-dress, reminiscent of the infamous Bar Jacket. Hey, you’ve got to try the classics at least once right? Pair it with some tough looking boots and all will be good. I’m thinking something by Saint Laurent or Giuseppe Zanotti.

Balenciaga

Since I didn’t include any mainline Alexander Wang in this list, I thought I’d better include something from his swan song for Balenciaga. I see that next season will be one of change – will Nicki even wear Balenciaga if it isn’t designed by Wang? I opted for this white look with the shaping around the breasts, because I can only imagine that it would look better on someone with fuller breasts than the model – no offence intended, I’m in the small group too. Louis Vuitton

I went for this pink biker jacket from Nicolas’ latest collection. It reminded me of when Nicki used to be like Barbie. If only she’d go for one of the old Barbie necklaces with it. That would make my life. I can imagine her wearing this casually, perhaps shopping, flying, or the likes (I don’t know how she spends her downtime).

Alexander McQueen

Instead of going for one of the flowery, floaty looks from this show I propose something a little different – my favourite look in fact. Jeans and a top. I can see her going for this entire look to be honest. To make it perfect, I’d like black hair in a bun with a fringe, but that may be too much to ask!

Versace

I loved this season’s Versace. Raquel Zimmerman opened it by stomping down the runway in this khaki blazer which I’d love to see Nicki in. I also really like this dress which Gigi Hadid wore but I fear that it might be too associated with her already for someone else to wear it and nobody really wants a “who wore it better?” moment, so I think Natasha Poly’s could be a close alternative.

Oscar de la Renta

This dress was just so pretty that I couldn’t not include it on this list. I can imagine this with a centre-parted wavy hairstyle and matching lipstick. I know Nicki used to favour Oscar so maybe its time she wore something from the brand again.

Altuzarra

My favourite New York designer’s clothes have never been worn by Nicki as far as I know. That should change. I went for this exotic skin coat because I feel like it is her down to a tee – glamorous and luxurious and so fucking expensive. This would be a great introduction to the brand’s clothing.

Anthony Vaccarello

This dress may be pushing the limits a little in terms of how risque Nicki is willing to dress. However, if she’ll push the boundaries this far I’d be impressed. I loved Vaccarello’s show and this was one of my favourite dresses from it.

Ashish

The first thing I’ll say about this is that I suggest hiking the skirt up over the belly button to make it high waisted. I think that would look better (more flattering) and also show less unnecessary stomach. This is one of the looks that I think she’s least likely to wear, but I’ll include it anyway. Oh, and change the shoes too.

So there’s 15 different designers, a few more looks. You’ll probably have noticed that there’s a few major brands who I’ve left out – Balmain, Alexander Wang, and Chanel are just a few – and the reason for this was rather simple: I couldn’t see any looks that I’d put her in. I can guarantee that she’ll wear quite a few pieces from Balmain (she always does), maybe something from T by Alexander Wang or a custom modified runway piece (I couldn’t see any straight-off-the-runway that I’d put her in), and she’ll buy a few bags and maybe shoes from Chanel.

Is there a glaringly obvious look you think I’ve missed? Let me know. Apart from that, I’m fairly confident in my choices. I hope she wears at least one. Ruskha, it’s over to you now.

London Fashion Week Highlights – Spring 2016

I think I touched on this before, but I often don’t understand London fashion. Maybe understand is the wrong word, perhaps I don’t connect with it. You see, my favourite designers all show elsewhere and there’s only a few brands that show in London that I genuinely get excited to see each season. It’s funny because London is a city that I love so much. I visit at least once a year and I never feel out of place yet when it comes to London Fashion Week I feel out of my depth. I feel like I don’t understand the concepts behind a lot of the designs and sometimes I don’t even understand why they made the runway.

London has always been the most “creative” city in terms of design. It is also, historically, the city that supports emerging designers the most with shows like Fashion East and Central Saint Martins supporting young designers who have either just graduated or are just starting their own brands. A few brands have long-standing relationships with the city, Burberry for example, and some truly British brands through and through still show there. Unfortunately Tom Ford, usually one of the highlights of the week, is showing elsewhere – that puts a bit of a damper on things as this is the second season in a row that this has happened.

BARBARA CASASOLA

This is a designer that I usually enjoy in London. I first noticed her a few seasons ago and I think her aesthetic is something that I can relate to. I would wear her clothes. There was a basic colour palette (black, white, camel, red, and khaki) which are all colours that I wear, apart from red. However, this was a really nice shade and the satin made it look expensive. I found there to be a lot of functional clothes in this collection that could be worn by real people, not just models: for example, the double breasted suits, the camel overcoat, jumpers, cut-out bandeau tops, and long skirts. There wasn’t anything crazy or out-there, which works for me, but it was a solid collection that I think will be commercially viable. She only has a few stockists at the moment but they’re big ones – Net-a-porter and Matches Fashion. I feel like this collection could maybe draw in a few more.

JOSEPH

I think that Joseph is a discreet brand. They don’t go in-your-face with advertising or gimmicky clothes but just focus on making nice clothes. In my local Harvey Nichols, the Joseph concession seems to be the most frequented and likely one of the most popular. I think the reasons for this are the price point – higher than diffusion lines like T by Alexander Wang and MICHAEL Michael Kors, but lower than the likes of Alexander McQueen and Rick Owens (both are also stocked in the same store) – and also the fact that the clothes fit easily into a working woman’s wardrobe. Think about it, to afford designer clothes you probably need to work and if you need to work, you need work-appropriate clothes – that’s what Joseph provides, but not in a boring way. This collection was more edgy than workwear with high slits, fun twists, and slightly oversized proportions, much of which I think will be simplified for retail. Overall, a strong collection from a consistent brand. I don’t think they need to rely on runway shows for sales.

BURBERRY PRORSUM

Burberry is a classic British brand. I adored the show in Los Angeles which re-showcased the FW15 collection and although I didn’t like this one as much, I still liked it a lot more than other shows I’ve seen in London this time around. Burberry always puts on quite a production and I’d say it is the show to be at in London. The focus of this collection seemed to be less on the classic trench coat (and different variations of it) and more on sheer dresses. For coats, duffles seemed to rule. There were lots of gauzy panels and intricate mesh and lace details that all created a different look for each dress. It seemed like a continuation of the LA show in the sense that there were a few dresses of similar shapes – for example, this one from London and this one from LA. Perhaps that continuation is good as it makes a strong and consistent brand image, something that Burberry has worked hard to ensure is intact after the chav-association of the 90s.

And the rest…

Emilia Wickstead produced another collection of pretty pastels, something I don’t love but I think works for the brand. I imagine that this dress will have a red carpet appearance.

How cool is the print on this top at Jean-Pierre Brazanga? I feel like I can see the silhouette of a woman in it. I also really love this entire outfit. It incorporates colour in a way that I could probably manage (I mainly wear black and neutrals).

Roksanda continued with the colourblocking that she is known for this season, however it seemed softer than usual in this skirt, I think due to the fabric choice.

Topshop Unique is a show that I usually enjoy in London because the creative director, Kate Phelan of Vogue, is so good. I really like her overall aesthetic, both for Vogue and Topshop. My favourite look is this blue silky shirt, and I also liked the pale pink embroidered dress that was second from last, although it did remind me a lot of Dolce & Gabbana SS15.