Yay! Italy! Milan Fashion Week was always my favorite out of the four weeks when I was younger. Now with the revamped Gucci, Milan is even more of a staple than it used to be. Some people even skip London and go straight to Milan from New York. I used to always love Milan because I felt that the designers often presented a unified front in the sense that they always designed very feminine and womanly clothes. I also used to love Dolce & Gabbana and I looked forward to the show each season. Now I don’t care for it as much as before but I can still appreciate the beauty. Things have changed slightly but Milan still remains one of the highlights of fashion month for me.
I’ve been really terrible at blogging for the entire month of February. I have a zillion drafts saved with various titles about events that happened throughout the month, yet I have no desire to write about them now because it’s just too late. Like, aren’t we all over New York Fashion Week? Hasn’t the shock of Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy departure worn off? I feel like instead of typing out my thoughts on these events, I’ve discussed them in person, either with my friends or in school. That being said, I’ve kept a long-running note on my Macbook with various observations that I’ve made throughout fashion month so instead of breaking my posts up by city, I’m just going to put it all in one post in a rambling post. I hope you enjoy!
Ok, so the exciting thing about New York Fashion Week was the fact that Raf Simons was back. Even though he had only been gone for such a small period of time, it seemed like an eternity in fashion when everything moves so quickly and a few seasons feels like 4 years. I personally liked his debut ready-to-wear collection for Calvin Klein, especially the transparent plastic over the trench coats (reminded me of the Doom Generation which I was obsessed with when I was fifteen) and the heavy focus on outerwear. However, I can see that the #mycalvins will be a thing of the past and that sucks but the Moonlight cast underwear ads are incredible so we’re all good. Alexander Wang was another show that I really liked, especially these two looks (a and b), and the venue was cool. The long leather coats at The Row were super cool. I loved this suit at Jason Wu. A theme I noticed throughout NYFW was grey blazers, in some form of check. This made me mad at myself because I used to own the most perfect vintage Ralph Lauren one a few years ago but I gave it to charity because I rarely wore it. Big mistake. I normally love Area’s lookbooks but they moved to a show format this season which was kind of sad actually but it does show growth for the brand. I’m obsessed with this coat from Proenza Schouler. Anything that combines vinyl-looking leather and fur/shearing, I’m onboard with. Narciso Rodriguez’s collection was very much how I wish I dressed on a day-to-day basis.
By the time London Fashion Week rolled around, I was in LA. During that time I barely touched my phone for social media or email purposes. I just used the Maps app for directions.
I didn’t like the runway at Gucci because I think it was too distracting for the actual showgoers, plus there were too many looks. The standout ones were a, b, and c – I’m so happy about the return of snakeskin boots. The colors at Max Mara were perfect. Honestly everything about that show just looked so good. The styling was sublime. I was so into the red boots at Fendi. I want a pair already, it was an instant sale (if only I could afford them). This coat at Prada is to die for. The dry-cleaning theme at Moschino was hilarious, they even put a wire hanger in the model’s hair.
This dress at Jacquemus is so beautiful, it reminded me of vintage Chanel with a twist. This brand has the best IG. I love the new Saint Laurent, even if it’s just 80s redone. I’m so desperate for a pair of the logo earrings. From this collection I loved the sparkling mini dresses (a and b), the latter of the pair being a better version of the one I wore on New Years. Surprisingly I found myself liking a lot of looks at Off-White. I say surprisingly because although I like Virgil Abloh and admire his work ethic, I have never been the biggest fan of his clothes. However, this collection was interesting to me, even though it was entitled “Nothing New” I thought it was different for him. I want to wear this look, but I also like a, b, and c. This coat at Mugler was 80s power shoulders to the max and I thought it was so fun. Balenciaga was actually interesting to me. Normally I’m not a big fan of Demna Gvasalia but this collection was great, particularly a, b, and c. It was sad to see a Givenchy collection without Riccardo Tisci (I wasn’t ready for his departure to be a real thing) but I do like how they directly referenced pieces from his tenure. It was a nice tribute. Louis Vuitton rented out the Louvre for the show and honestly this is an instance where the design standard matched the location. I loved it. In particular, a and b.
As life has gotten in the way once again, I’m going to keep this post about London rather brief. Honestly, I have struggled to keep up to date with fashion week this season. We are just about to begin Paris today and the only shows that I’ve seen from Milan have been via Instagram. I really need to sit down and just catch up but I keep finding other things to do. I guess I knew I was going to be busy living in New York (it is the city that never sleeps) but I don’t think I realised quite how busy I would be. I’m not complaining though, life is so much more fun now.
I feel like the whole see-now, buy-now concept has taken over from the actual clothes at fashion week. Most of the hype I’ve seen has been around this idea instead of the actual fashion, but perhaps that is because we are at a rather stagnant period right now. I’m not sure if anything too crazy has been shown throughout fashion month yet but I definitely haven’t heard about anything too out there.
Anyway, see some picks from London below:
I love Paris. I love the mix of designers you get here plus the historic houses which continue to create. There were a couple of houses without set designers this season (Dior and Lanvin mainly, both with varying results) and another couple where designers who recently started their appointment are still finding their feet and giving the brand their own personal touch. Let me start this off by saying that I’m not going to discuss either Vetements or Balenciaga in any detail. I am not interested. I used to be such a Balenciaga fan under both Ghesquiere and Wang but for now I am done with the brand. I’ll wait to see the clothes actually on the streets before I say anything else.
Besides the aforementioned, there were many shows that I liked. This season I’ve found myself picking out a few pieces from each collection or a handful of looks that I think are strong/something I’d buy/super cool instead of looking at entire collections overall. I’m not sure if this is good or bad. For the whole season there has probably been less than 10 shows that I’ve thought of as the entire collection instead of just a few looks that I like.
Honestly, I adore Riccardo Tisci. If you know anything about me, you’ll hopefully know that. Every season he makes clothes that I would want to buy and wear. For the most part, our aesthetics align. This season there was a bunch of different prints including snakeskin and leopard. I’ve actually seen a lot of leopard print coats over the past couple of seasons and I’ve been wanting one for a good few months. This show made me realise that come fall I will need one. (My favourite is still the Alexander Wang pre-fall one, however.) The collection was actually very cohesive. Inspired by Egypt, Tisci made a beautiful collection without being too literal in his references. I cannot wait to see how the ads are styled!
This is the first ready-to-wear collection produced by the in-house design team since Raf Simons’ departure. The couture collection was panned but I think this one deserves a little more praise. I actually thought it stayed very true to the brand’s core principals and original designs. That is also a reason that people aren’t liking the collection (too safe). However, I thought there were a lot of beautiful pieces with a classic Dior silhouette. Realistically, the Dior customer is hella rich and not gaudy. These kind of clothes appeal to her, even if they don’t push the boat out creatively. My favourite looks were the fur-lapelled coat worn by Kendall Jenner and the dusky lavender coat of a similar style.
I have a method of looking at a Chanel collection. The first step is to look over all of the thumbnails on Vogue Runway and open the ones that catch my eye in a new tab. The next step is to look through the entire gallery and zoom in on pieces. If I still like them, I’ll open the tab again. Usually this leaves me with a zillion tabs open so small that my browser is about to crash. If I have doubles, I know that I like the look. It sounds like a tedious process but I’ve found that it’s the only way I can actually observe a Chanel collection because there’s always so much going on. Doing it this way means that I find pieces that I might gloss over if just giving it a once over; only occasionally do I actually watch the show in motion. This season I found the set was pared back but the clothes were not. There were cool uses of tweed (a bomber-type jacket for one), lots of pearls (a Chanel staple), and also many accessories which I thought were fantastic such as hats and mini bags. The Boy bag has to be the most popular Chanel style at the moment so it only makes sense that there were many imaginings of it on the runway. The floaty black dress with the gold embellishments towards the end was my favourite piece in the entire collection and one that I’d like to see in the campaign images.
And the rest…
This shearling cape at Maison Margiela was a fun twist on a classic aviator jacket.
I don’t think anyone was really ready to see another Lanvin show yet. I found it very 80s and many of the looks made me think of what American socialites would buy from the Parisian couture shows back then. I actually liked this dress even though it was slightly like a bed sheet. Also, this fur coat was cool.
These two looks (i & ii) at Dries Van Noten were very nice and I’d actually have styled them together with the coat open. It may have taken away from the impact on the runway but I can imagine that this is how people would actually wear it. There could’ve been a great supermodel-style runway moment where they took off the coat and swung it over their shoulders.
At Guy Laroche I liked this embroidered jacket.
You can count on Chloe for lightweight, flowy dresses. I feel like these can be worn in any season (with tights in the winter and bare legged in the summer). This time around I particularly liked this mustard offering with soft ruffles.
I used to be such an Olivier Rousteing fangirl but I’ve started to tire of Balmain. I think overexposure has done it. Looks are becoming so repetitive as well. However, there were still quite a few pieces that I liked (just not enough to make the show a favourite) such as this beautiful navy blouse with ruffles and this embellished top and skirt.
I’m slightly late on the whole patterned bomber jacket trend but I really like this one at Emanuel Ungaro. Given that they’re being shown on the catwalk again this season, I think it is a trend that is here to stay. I’ve seen a cool one at Zara that I like and if that fails I think I’ll look to a vintage store.
I really liked the colour palette at Akris, so warm and definitely autumn appropriate. Also, you can get a dress with a similar print to this one at Mango just now for £49.99 (if you’re interested in a runway-esque look for less).
The proportions of this coat at Acne Studios is cool. I also like the boots that it is paired with. I’m currently loving a lighter sole paired with black boots.
I am obsessed with this check dress at Isabel Marant. I’ll be interested to see how much this retails for because I want to buy it.
I liked the Rick Owens show a lot more this season than normal. The clothes were oversized and flowy but not so big that they drowned the models. Plus, the show was less gimmicky. See the full collection here.
I want to wear this entire look from Paco Rabanne.
Valentino was so pretty but I’m sick to death of the shitty casting.
As with London, I’m a little late in writing this for Milan. I have been so busy over the past week or so that I haven’t had the time to even think about fashion week. I see a constant stream of images on Instagram so I know what has been going on but I’m not totally in the loop. It doesn’t help that I just started my Netflix free trial and have become hooked on Suits. Anyway, on to fashion week:
Firstly, I liked the sailor hats. They were a fun touch and I can definitely imagine some girls wearing them. I’m not sure if any of you have watched her videos but there’s a Youtuber named Sammi Quinn who I think would definitely wear one and look great whilst doing so. Apart from that, I had to dissect every look piece by piece. I find that’s what I have to do with Prada’s shows to see anything in them. The runway looks are always too much at once for me and I need to imagine what the clothes would be like on a rack. For that reason, I loved the coats with the fur trims, especially the leather one pictured above and the hybrid fur sleeve deal (I love the mix of fabrics, just like Sally LaPointe’s fur sleeved sweaters). I also really liked the printed shirts (one is worn in the look with the aforementioned coat) and the patterned long coats. Overall, lots of pieces that I’d buy if I were rich and needing a lot of new, non-basic clothes. It was just a really good collection.
I really loved the colour scheme at Versace. The black, blues, and salmon pink was fun and pulled the collection together. The knit jumper worn by Natasha Poly stood out to me because it was just so un-Versace in my mind, yet it worked. Outerwear is my favourite type of clothing, both to look at and to shop for and I think there were a few coats in this collection worth a second look – namely the navy with leather lapels worn by Adriana Lima and the bright pink one worn by Imaan Hammam (I adore her). The accessories were strong in this collection as well. Versace is not a brand I’d ever think of for a handbag but perhaps I should open my mind a bit more.
To be completely honest, I don’t know very much about this brand. I clicked on the thumbnail because I liked the look of it and ended up liking almost every look in the collection. I am all about elevated basics. I’m here for practicality. I know that can sound terribly boring but I’d rather splurge on something I know I can wear for years to come than a trend piece that you’re better off buying at Topshop. The soft, slightly muted colours were divine and the clothes all looked very soft and feminine. Some looks played with proportions, for example the red look pictured above with the wide sleeves, whereas others were tight and cinched in at the waist. I don’t know about you but I can see a lot of pieces that could be a lot of use to me. That’s what excites me about fashion. Clothes are made to be worn!
Another collection that I suppose fits in with the minimalist movement. I think you’re either in one camp or another. Maximalists will have enjoyed Gucci, Minimalists will enjoy Jil Sander, some people love both. The white coat with the black buttons reminded me of a doctors outfit but cooler, hence why I liked that. The collection had quite a cool, oversized vibe to it and I love that. I once read about how costume designers used to give Joan Crawford shoulder pads because her shoulders were naturally wide and this collection made me think of that story. She was not afraid to make herself boxier and in the Kardashian, body-con era that we are now in, I think it’s important to remember that slouchy and oversized is fine too. Honestly, I wear both.
And the rest…
The embellishments on this golden dress at Ermanno Scervino were so beautiful. I want to see Selena Gomez in this. Also, is that a mini cross body bag or part of the dress? I haven’t managed to see a video yet to see it in motion.
Turquoise and peach was a colour scheme that ran through the Fendi show, similar to that of Versace. I loved how elegant Julia Nobis looks in this look and how cool Imaan Hammam looks here (I love the stole). However, if I were to buy anything from the collection it would definitely be this coat with a furry collar and trimmings.
The CFDA are considering a radical new show schedule for New York Fashion Week with lots of ideas being thrown around. The general idea is, given how interested consumers now are in this digital age, that the wait time between garments being shown on the runway to them actually hitting the stores is too long. The most hyped items are often forgotten about by the time the next fashion week comes around because the famous bloggers and celebrities somehow managed to get their hands on them already and by the time they hit the stores it is too late. A wholly revised schedule has been proposed, one that should benefit the consumers mainly but also the retailers. It would mean that fast fashion stores would have less time to turn out a copy, meaning people would either have to wait until it trickled down or just buy full-price. I think it would have huge repercussions on the fashion industry as we know it.
I actually think the reforms being discussed sound very good. The idea of showing clothes for the upcoming season when the season is about to start makes a lot of sense. This Fashionista article does a good job of weighing up the pros and the cons of the proposal. I firmly believe it is a positive idea for the actual fashion industry in general; what do you think?
Now that fashion month has been over for a while, I’ve had time to reflect on everything and really form opinions. You know, taking a second look at things with fresh eyes really helps. Often something that I loved first time around doesn’t move me upon a second glance, and on the contrary, the opposite can happen and something that I hated, I now love, or like at least. So I’ve decided to do this the easy way, and the way that I’m guessing most of you would prefer, and keep it short and sweet. I figure there’s no point in rehashing out the stuff that I, and many other people, have already said, so this is probably going to be in list form. I’m doing 4 categories of “bests” with 4 picks in each of them, hence the title of this post. And just so you know, if I’m picking the best out of each four fashion weeks, Milan was hands-down my favourite. But that was no surprise.
BEST SHOW IN EACH CITY
Since when I’m doing my reviews, I pick out 5 shows that I like the best, it is easy to narrow down from that five into just one. What I did find was that I couldn’t actually remember any shows from London. When I was brainstorming this post, I wrote Altuzarra for New York and MaxMara for Milan, but nothing for London. I actually had to go back and look at my own post. That’s not so good and I think confirms that London’s fashion just doesn’t stick in my mind. That’s not to say that they are short of talented designers, because that’s not true, they just don’t stay in my brain the same way designers from the other cities did. Anyhow, I’m veering off topic.
- NEW YORK – Altuzarra, but Jason Wu comes a very close second
- LONDON – Tom Ford (is this cheating?)
- MILAN – MaxMara
- PARIS – Givenchy
I really think I could be a casting director. I mean, is the job so hard? You pick out a bunch of beautiful girls from a line-up, ensure that they can fit your show in their schedules, fit them into the right looks, then watch them stomp down the runway. It all sounds so trivial, and maybe it’s my fault for reducing it to just that. There’s obviously a lot more in it than that, or anybody could do it. So why is it that some shows are so awfully cast? Is it because no models want to walk for that designer? Unlikely. Is it because the brand can’t afford the big name girls? Maybe sometimes. Is it racism? A little bit. Or is it something more? A clash of visions perhaps? I don’t know, but I’d like to get to the bottom of it.
As it has been fashion month recently, I’ve been keeping an eye on the castings. I love models. I have my favourites who I enjoy looking out for in editorials and spotting on the catwalks. I also have girls I don’t like, not for personal reasons, but because I’m not into their look. It sounds so harsh not liking somebody because of how they look, but that is one of the consequences of being a model; you are literally valued based on your appearance.
Some of the girls that walk the runways, I question how they ever got there. Who scouted them? Who thought it was a good idea to cast them? And obviously somebody knows better than I do, because that’s their job whereas I’m just sitting behind a screen, typing my thoughts away. Somebody saw potential in this girl, even if I’m blind to it. But I think that’s a problem, if maybe a few people in fashion think somebody has ‘it’, you know the elusive, nearly impossible to define factor that separates this tall, skinny girl from all the other tall, skinny girls in the world, but the general public don’t see it.
Often when there are photos of models online, say on the Daily Mail, for a horrific example, people comment saying how they don’t understand how this person is beautiful, how they’re too tall, too skinny, too masculine, too whatever-the-fuck-they-want-to-criticise-the-girl-for. And that matters, because if the public think all the models are ugly and anorexic looking, fashion gets a bad rep. Fashion as an industry becomes characterised as a pro-eating disorder place, which I’d say is untrue but that’s a whole other debate. The girls get slaughtered in the comments sections online and that must hurt. It is interesting to see that some of the models who have been the most successful are classically beautiful. Take Christy Turlington as an example, or Cindy Crawford. Both classic, all-American girls, both very clearly beautiful, both still talked about 20 years after their heyday. Of course there are exceptions to this (Kate Moss, who was short and super skinny, didn’t fit the beauty ideal when she first hit the scene).
Another point that I think needs to be made is the lack of diversity in models. This is a big issue and has been talked about infinitely. When Jourdan Dunn walked for Prada, she was the first black girl to do so in over a decade. Before her, it was Naomi Campbell back in 1993. When Malaika Firth was cast in the Prada campaign, she was the first black girl to be in one for 19 years. And let us not talk about both British and American Vogue’s lack of racial diversity on their magazine covers in 2014 (because I’ve already posted about it). It seems wild that in 2015 racial diversity is still an issue – or the lack of it should I say? It is predicted that by 2050, non-whites will make up around 30% of the population of the UK. Furthermore, it is predicted that by the same year in the USA, non-whites will make up 51%. So why, when looking at runways, does it appear that non-whites do not exist?
Certain brands show a fully white runway. Others add in a token black girl. A few more justify their diversity by having a couple of Asians in the mix. It’s just wrong. There is no acceptable reason for it. One shitty excuse that is often used is that it is just the look of the collection, or they are going for a certain feeling. I call bullshit. It is always interesting to see the diversity reports of the runways after fashion week. New York got a lot of praise this season for their diversity, not just racially, but in terms of genders and disabilities too. It may just be a one-off, although it does sound quite cynical to think that. However, once you see the breakdown figures, you realise that 77.4% of models were white. Some shows literally just cast one model of colour. Zac Posen had the most racially diverse show with over half of his models being non-white. You can read the full diversity report here, it has a brilliant graph that I tried to embed here but couldn’t figure out how to do so.
Off of the topic of diversity, I want to hone in on model casting. Although diversity is a crucial factor, I think that actually casting the right girls for the right brands is important. Say you were doing an internship at Zac Posen, you would dress differently that you would for Alexander Wang. Similarly with models, you expect different girls to walk Versace than you do Saint Laurent. Why? Because they are completely different brands. I think Versace, or other brands (say Fausto Puglisi) demands an obvious type of sexy. The girls who walk are generally beautiful in a way that regular people can see. However, the girls that walk Saint Laurent can be edgier, and perhaps a little bit uglier. I always find it odd to see someone like Jamie Bochert walking Versace, no offence intended, because she isn’t in-your-face sexy. Idk. Maybe it is dumb of me to think this way, especially because in fashion anybody can be sexy. I just don’t see it.
I’d just really like to try my hand at casting a show. When you look at catwalk images from the mid-2000s, the models stand out. You get excited when you see them. Imagine nowadays if you had a show with Vlada, Sasha, Snejana, and co. alongside Aya Jones, Anna Ewers, Malaika Firth etc. It would be dreamlike. Maybe it is models who are more bland. Runways are full of nondescript faces, girls who will disappear after a few seasons without being remembered. I want that to change. I want to look at a show and see strong, powerful women. I want to see visually stunning models who can sell whatever they are wearing. I want to look at a show and want what the models are wearing, because that’s their job, right?
There was a meme going around on the internet a few weeks ago, after the Grammys I think, with a side-by-side comparison of Ciara wearing an Alexander Vauthier couture gown that had been worn on the catwalk a few days earlier by Anna Cleveland. There were so many jokes about how much better Ciara looked, and I found that kind of sad. Surely the model should look best in the dress, they are meant to be the ideal. Perhaps it is both the models and the casting directors that need to change? Maybe fashion needs a good shake-up?
I just want fashion to return to a golden age, and to do that we need better models, or better casting, or a bit of both. Get rid of the celebrity models who can’t actually model very well but generate a lot of publicity, and focus on making the real girls supermodels. Heck, Kate and Naomi were nobodies when they started out and now they are two of the world’s biggest supermodels. If talent was developed in that way today, we could have a new generation of supers. Instead, we have celebrity models who have been at it for a season being hailed as supermodels in the tabloids, and the real hard-working models being ignored largely. That sucks. So next season, perhaps we can see more diversity, more apt casting, and less celebrity models (but that’s a long shot). Think of this as an open letter to the casting directors and model scouts and anyone else who reads it and wants to put in their 2 cents, and hey, if you ever need a hand I have impeccable taste in models, even if I say so myself.
I want to bring your attention to this brilliant article on Fashionista, entitled the same as my title, about the increasing similarities between collections at fashion week. I think after seeing many of the shows at New York Fashion Week, I had an overwhelming feeling of “I’ve seen this before” and that is what the writer has picked up on.
I get it. Fashion is never entirely new. Everything has been done before. However, it is getting a little bit dull when designers are churning out collections that combine too many elements of another brand’s collection from just a season or two before. Now there are many undeniable similarities between collections and that happens every season. In fact, without that coincidence there would be no such thing as trends. There are some designers who are just so influential that there are elements of their work everywhere (take Phoebe Philo who is name checked in the article as an example).
I think the article is just a good read and is so relevant, especially after fashion week. It will also be interesting to see if the whole sixties/seventies trend continues in Milan and Paris like they have with many designers in New York, and also a little bit in London (think the suede skirt suit at Topshop Unique).
New York is the most commercial of the four main fashion cities. London is known for the raw creativity and young talent, Milan for the sexy Italian fashion, and Paris for the elegance and established houses. This fashion week has been no different. It is still predominantly commercial (read: ready to wear in its most literal sense) but that is not necessarily a bad thing. I think it can be easy to think all the good designers show in Europe but that is not really true. Take Joseph Altuzarra, a fairly young designer who shows in New York, who loved and lauded in fashion – he shows in New York. I think the fact that New York’s schedule is so packed makes it more difficult to split the good from the bad, and it is definitely easy to be overwhelmed just looking at the amount of names. However, there are some shining stars on that show schedule that cannot be ignored.
I like Jason Wu, mainly because he is consistent. Season upon season, collections full of sophisticated designs are sent down the runway and they are often faultless. There are touches of fur all throughout the collection, along with crocodile, cashmere and silk. It all screams luxury yet it isn’t over the top. It is the type of collection that a rich woman will walk into the store and buy because she genuinely likes the pieces, materials and overall quality, not just the name on the tag. If I had the money, I think I could live in this collection. The outerwear is strong: a belted fur coat for the chilly evenings when you still want to look glamorous, a long overcoat for day-to-day usage. There are office appropriate looks, as well as looks for fancy dinners, nights out and even weekend-wear. It has everything that I could want… well minus denim. However, in the fantasy in my head I am a wealthy Manhattanite who flounces between her fun job at the office and charity galas and events. You know, the kind of stuff I’ll never actually do. However, I loved this collection and although it wasn’t exactly out-there, it was stunning. There’s nothing wrong with playing it safe if you execute things to a standard as high as this.
If Altuzarra as a brand is known for one thing it is the shoes. In particular, the lace up, high legged heels that Kim Kardashian has been sporting for the past year or so. Now they are sold everywhere from Zara to Missguided, with some high-end brands making their own version. Who did it first isn’t the point here, but Altuzarra certainly is loved for them. This season marked the debut of his first bag, and while it will be as popular as his shoes is the big question. I’m not so sure. It is a saddle shape, slightly (and I say slightly) reminiscent of the Gucci “Jackie” bag, with tassels and braiding, and it comes in many different colours and leathers. The collection itself was classic Altuzarra. Thigh high slits were rife, as were touches of fur (well more than touches, the fur was huge), mainly on jacket lapels. Some pieces felt a little bit heritage mixed with sex. There was Prince of Wales check blazers and coats teamed up with lace or sheer fabrics underneath. However, my personal favourite looks were towards the end of the show, and were more glitzy evening wear than country. In particular, I adored this wrap-front, sparkling ensemble including the shoes. The model twinkled as she walked.
The Olsen twins’ line is one of the most talked about luxury brands of the moment, and I understand why. Mary Kate and Ashley are no amateurs and have certainly proven themselves in fashion, no mean feat considering they are essentially celebrity designers. I wrote a post at length on this before if you’d like to read more. I think the understated luxury, the sophisticated but relaxed elegance, of The Row is essential in its success. The colour palette of browns worked brilliantly. I think I prefer brown and other neutral colours at the moment over black, they are softer and just look more comfortable. Yes, there may be such thing as too much black – something that I would never have admitted 6 months ago. Their oversized fit works for them, especially in the jumpers that I have heard nothing but positivity about. I adore the belted coats and the long, sweeping dusters. Even the tailoring didn’t look rigid. I’m crazy about this dress, minus the trousers underneath. Once again, another hit for The Row. I can bet already that it will be a best seller: if I were a buyer, I’d take the lot.
I stand by my review of Sally LaPointe’s pre-fall collection, and I will give a similar one to this show. Whilst it wasn’t quite as good as the previous collection (purely because I didn’t want it all, like literally every single piece like last season), it was still brilliant. The clothes are unfussy, relaxed and luxurious – for the modern woman, of course. There are fur accents on many pieces, something that is considered a signature of the designer, and a few strictly evening pieces. My favourite look was the white oversized v-neck and fringed skirt combo, paired with some grey mules.
There were few things wrong with this collection. The colour palette was spot on, the cosy-but-luxurious knit pieces worked brilliantly, the fur accents (made of shearling, not real fur) added a little something extra to the looks to take them from average to brilliant. Ralph Lauren is the King of American fashion and has been for decades, that is a given. Despite this, I sometimes find his collections boring. However, I loved this one. The little black dress in my collage (bottom row on the far right) is a piece that I want in my wardrobe when it comes out. It is timeless, elegant and just looks expensive. Also, I adore the suede trousers and belted cardigans, such a good look. I get the feeling that the fairly newly introduced Polo line for women was slightly unnecessary, especially when the mainline looks so good.
And the rest….
Kanye West x Adidas Originals was underwhelming. There were a couple of good pieces (this coat for example) and I did like the pointy-toed boots, but overall this whole body-stocking thing is just not for me nor were the wig caps…
I liked this particular outfit from Rebecca Minkoff’s Patti Smith-inspired collection. It looks so cosy.
I usually adore Alexander Wang but this time around I didn’t. I don’t know if it was the ridiculous boots that the models could barely walk in or the deathly stares that they were giving, but I couldn’t connect. I liked a few looks (such as x, y & z) but overall it was a miss for me.
Protagonist made its NYFW debut this season and produced a collection full of brilliant basics, the kind of pieces that every woman would want in their wardrobe. I particularly loved this shirt-dress as it is so nipped in at the waist.
I loved these two (x & y) looks at Diane von Furstenberg, and I felt like they were slightly unexpected, perhaps more overtly sexy than what the brand usually goes for. It helps that Grace Mahary is wearing one of the dresses as she makes pretty much anything looks great.
There were quite a few looks that I loved at Zac Posen, including this blue dress with the interesting neckline. I felt that this dress was slightly off-brand, it looks more clubbing-party-girl than I would imagine the Zac Posen client to be. Also, I am in love with the top of this dress. It is the most stunning thing ever and I just love the way the mesh moulds around the model’s body and forms sleeves. However, from the waist down I am not crazy about it.
Natasha Poly looked insane opening Michael Kors in this incredible fur coat. You could not miss it as it was all over Instagram. The whole look was strong, including the bag (and for the most part I hate Michael Kors bags).
This was said to be Proenza Schouler’s most creative, let-loose collection in years and I think that is clear to see through the designs. Some of it may not be the most wearable but at least it is gaining attention which, hopefully for the brand, will translate into sales – perhaps of accessories. I loved this dress, the tights underneath not so much.
I adored Tibi. The laid-back, day-to-day elegance of this collection was unparalleled by any other brands this fashion week. The clothes were soft and so wearable. Look at these this look for example; a cosy sweater but this time with knitted cropped pants. It took me a while to come around to this whole knitwear thing (especially on the bottom half) but I cannot resist the warmth that they provide, especially with the sub-zero temperatures that we are experiencing in many places.
Finally, I liked Marc Jacobs and the whole Diana Vreeland reference. Often I don’t get Marc’s own line and I much preferred his work at Louis Vuitton. Now that he focuses on his own line full time, it is the only offering we get from him. I loved these three looks (x, y & z)