Tag: galliano

Fashion Flashback: Christian Dior Spring 2000 Couture

I just finished reading “Gods & Kings”, Dana Thomas’ book profiling two of the most prolific designers of the past quarter century, Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Often touted as rivals, the two designers experienced growth and fame at the same time, with their careers on an almost parallel path, before everything went south. McQueen famously died in 2010 and not so long afterwards Galliano was fired from his position at Christian Dior after being filmed on a drunken, anti-Semitic outburst in a Parisian bar. McQueen is widely revered. His creativity is said to be unmatched and where Galliano often made costumey pieces that were nothing like what was actually sold in stores, McQueen was said to make ultra-creative and artistic pieces that clients could actually see themselves wearing. Both men had similarly tortured private lives and similarly profiled public lives.

This collection is one of Galliano’s most controversial. It was even the inspiration for Mugatu’s collection entitled Derelicte in Zoolander. Basically, Galliano took inspiration from the homeless population of Paris and repackaged what he had observed from the underprivileged on the streets of the city and the banks of the Seine, where he used to go jogging, as haute couture. He was also inspired by images taken by photographer Diane Arbus of mentally ill patients. Rightly so, he received intense criticism for this move. However, 17 years later we are still talking about the collection. This New York Times article, written back in 2000 when the collection was debuted, explains the whole situation well and features quotes from Galliano who failed to see anything wrong with his actions. From what I have read about Galliano, a lack of accountability seems to be a common thing for him which is sad as it can overshadow his artistry. Regardless of the intention of this collection and the initial reaction, it has secured an important place in fashion history and that is something to remember.

 

Met Gala 2016

I was super excited for the Met Gala this year, mainly because I’ll actually get to see the exhibition for the first time ever! From the previews I’ve seen, the Chanel bridal look with the immense train is a stand out piece, along with some newer offerings from brands like Dior (under Raf Simons) and Prada. I’m excited to see it and explore the differences between handmade, laborious pieces and technologically created. I’m sure it will be marvellous.

An invite to the Met Gala is one of the most coveted in fashion. Nowadays I feel that celebrities attend just to attend, not because they have anything to do with fashion. Next year I hope that they trim the guest list slightly to people who have an impact on/interest in/some stake in the fashion industry but given the increased commercialisation of the event I doubt this will happen. Perhaps it is a good thing given that it is a fundraiser for the museum itself. I wonder if any of the celebrities in attendance actually donate anything to the Costume Institute, other than their presence on the red carpet?

I have to say, this is the event of the year where you can get off with taking the biggest risks in terms of fashion, not somewhere you would need to water it down. In my opinion, a lot of people could’ve pushed the theme a little further than they did, have fun with it instead of wearing straight off the runway dresses, but overall I think it was a good red carpet, although not as good as last year.

Since Manus x Machina (hand vs machine literally; man vs machine in simpler terms) is the title of the exhibition, I expected lots of silver, robotic, slightly futuristic looks and we got plenty of them. The element of the theme that I was most looking forward to was a fully technology created outfit, perhaps some 3D printing. I had hoped for some Chalayan (a true boundary pusher) or even Iris van Herpen. As far as I’m aware, neither of the designers were represented. Instead there was a helluva lot of Balmain and Louis Vuitton. I did like cool uses of texture (embellished latex on Beyonce, for example) and also the celebrities who totally switched up their look for the occasion (Zendaya’s hair looked amazing and also Kim Kardashian really suited lighter eyebrows).

In a dream world, I would’ve attended the opening wearing vintage couture, perhaps Galliano’s Dior (see above Fall 2006 looks), as something to represent the manus section of the exhibition. In a society increasingly reliant on technology (e.g. think of the havoc caused when emails go down in the office), I’d like to think man could come out on top. Or you could do a combination, how about a machine made dress hand-embellished? The clash of the two techniques and the way in which we will adapt to suit is important. And as the sub-title of the exhibition says, we are in the age of technology. However, I am obsessed with couture and the craft behind it. Let’s hope it is an art that never dies.

My best dressed

Amber Heard in Ralph Lauren Collection
Lupita Nyong’o in Calvin Klein
Lady Gaga in Versace (PS – I wish she had taken this even further)
Kendall Jenner in Versace
Kate Upton in Topshop
Alexa Chung in Thakoon
Beyonce in Givenchy
Anna Ewers in Jason Wu
Aja Naomi King in Prabal Gurung

And the best look of the entire evening…

Bella Hadid in Givenchy

 

All images from E! Online and Elle Magazine

Fashion Flashback: Christian Dior Spring 2010

I’m beyond obsessed with this show and I’ll put that down to the model line-up. By 2009 the Russian wave was nearing its end and this is one of the last shows where my favourite models all walked together. The show was opened by Karlie Kloss who was merely a baby at the time but had confidence that one can only dream of, followed by Abbey Lee, Frida Gustavsson, Natasha Poly, Sasha Pivovarova and a whole host more. (Yes, I am aware that many of the girls listed aren’t Russian there.) I just think that the mid 2000s to around 2010 was a true high period in terms of top models. So many of my favourites belong to this era, and sadly many have quit modelling now (either part-time now or all together). It is odd because they are all still so young – I don’t think any of them have hit 30 yet – but in modelling terms they are old news. They have been replaced with one of the worst model trends of late, celebrity models & kids of rich people. Ah well, it all comes and goes in cycles.

The show was theatrical but the clothes weren’t. For that reason, it is one of my favourite Galliano collections. I cannot lie and say I am overly fond of his work because a lot of the time I just don’t get it. I cannot be a pseudo-intellectual and pretend that I see depth in fashion all the time because a lot of the time I just don’t. Don’t get me wrong, I adore the theatrical element of fashion – the glamour, the fun, the extravagance – but most of the time I’d prefer simpler clothes that I can actually envision somebody wearing. I think in terms of sales and wearability instead of pure creativity, however dull that may make me.

I love the lingerie-esque pieces, especially the little lace trimmed satin French knickers that peeked out from underneath coats and skirts, the lightweight chiffon fabrics that feel so perfect for the Spring/Summer season, and the cute reworkings of trench coats. Plus, the Old Hollywood, Lauren Bacall waves that I could never manage to achieve and the soft red lips that bring a retro mood over the entire collection. I love it, the entire vibe. That’s really all I can say. If I ever stumble across Sasha P’s dress on eBay or the likes it is mine!