Tag: Louis Vuitton

Fashion Flashback: Louis Vuitton FW04

I’m headed back to Scotland for a little while this month so I thought it was fitting to feature a Scottish-inspired collection. Back in 2004, Marc Jacobs and his team took a trip to the Highlands to seek inspiration and look around the royal estate of Balmoral where the Queen spends her summers. The end result was a tartan-infused collection in the most luxe way possible.

Opened by Lily Cole, a model known for her lily-white skin (pun intended) and fiery red hair, the show had around 50 looks of real grown-up women’s clothes. This Louis Vuitton was definitely not intended for teenagers. It’s funny that fashion has made such a shift in the past decade because almost every brand seems to cater to a set of young people (aged 18-30) who often don’t have the spending power to match the price tags on the garments. Instead of focusing on the core group of women who are in an older age bracket (who will actually buy the garments instead of demanding PR samples or compensation for wearing the clothes), brands focus on kids and social media. Ten years ago, this was not the case. Clothes were made for grown-ups with real lives. People who wore pencil skirts to work. People who need cocktail dresses for various events. I guess the shift towards informality in society is also reflected in the casualness of our clothes nowadays.

Out of this show, my favorite looks were the tight black dress with the sheer netting detail on the shoulders and the little wrist-length gloves and the black suit jacket (very Chanel) with the velvet-looking pedal pushers. The collection even featured one of the fur stoles like what Kanye wore in a post from last month (but in brown, not grey). I hope you get the gist of the collection from the images I’ve added!

How do you control the use of your image?

Following Kendall & Kylie Jenner’s latest controversial misstep – screen printing their faces on “vintage” t-shirts from bands and rappers then selling them for $125 – I spent some time thinking about how artists can protect their legacy once they are gone, or even when they are still here.

The Jenner sisters’ collection of t-shirts featured artists like Tupac Shakur & Biggie Smalls, both deceased, and bands like Pink Floyd. Biggie Smalls’ mother, Voletta Wallace spoke out against the t-shirt in an Instagram post, calling it “exploitation” and “disrespectful”, and mentioned the key point that the sisters nor their teams reached out to her or anybody connected to Biggie’s estate to check if it was actually ok for them to use his image. Sharon Osbourne, wife of Ozzy (who was featured on one of the t-shirts), said that the girls hadn’t “earned the right” to put their faces with icons. The t-shirts were pulled from their website the day of the launch and Kendall & Kylie both issued an apology online.

I think it was pretty clear for everyone to see that the Jenners were in the wrong in this situation. It was a blatant money-making scheme which they hadn’t any business being involved in. However, someone approved it and for some reason it was released to the public. I think after receiving such harsh criticism from so many prominent figures will resonate with them. However, they are not the only people to ever use someone’s image without their permission. In fact, tour merchandise especially is often replicated.

Forever 21 and Kanye West had issues in 2016 when they copied the Pablo merch almost exactly. Justin Bieber teamed up with H&M to make a capsule collection of “Purpose” merch. It was a strange but apt collaboration given that H&M continually sell unofficial band merchandise, from Guns N’ Roses and Metallica. Then I also wonder how Metallica felt when Kanye West reused their famous logo and changed it into the Yeezus logo, splattering it on t-shirts, hats, and hoodies and selling it in droves. Yeezus merch was some of the most popular merch that I can remember in recent history so I can only assume that the profits were crazy high. Did Metallica get a cut?

Voletta Wallace made the point that nobody connected to the estate, meaning the estate of her deceased son Christopher Wallace, were contacted before Kendall & Kylie’s t-shirts were made and I then thought about how many t-shirts and memorabilia type items are made with people like Marilyn Monroe & Audrey Hepburn’s faces on it. Does their estate get a cut of all of these product’s profits? Or is it a lost cause?

The Rubens styles from the LV x Jeff Koons collaboration

Finally, I was reminded of the Louis Vuitton x Jeff Koons collaboration. Koons used famous masterpieces like the Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa and printed them on bags. Louis Vuitton are now selling the capsule collection. A bag from there will set you back $3200 for a Neverfull tote. How does that situation work out? If they are profiting from the work from a long deceased artist, in this case literally hundreds of years deceased, how does it work out in terms of copyright/ownership? I would be curious to find out more. Off-White also makes Caravaggio printed t-shirts for $293.

I guess my main question that I am posing with this post is how do people ensure that the profits from products are going to the right people? If someone’s likeness is used without their knowledge/consent, what is their legal rights/claims on the product’s profits? This is a subject that I’m going to explore in more depth personally over the next few weeks, doing some research. If I find out anything exciting, I will add it to this post as an update!

Fashion Flashback: Louis Vuitton SS05

Normally when composing these posts I start with a show that I want to feature in mind and then work to find a video and images to accompany it. This time I came across this show on YouTube, just randomly, and it spurred a whole tangent of discussion (can it be called discussion if its just with oneself?) so I thought it was worthy of a feature.

I was struck by how “old” these clothes looked. By that I mean these clothes are not made for teenagers, or even women in their twenties. They’re for consumers aged thirty plus, I’d say. This is what is of great interest to me because it’s different from the approach most brands are taking nowadays. Let me put it to you this way: a sixteen year old girl from Kansas likes a Louis Vuitton picture on Instagram, she may be obsessed with an outfit from the show, she may repost a picture. Is she buying it? No. However, a forty-five year old woman might see a picture of a look from a show on social media (because yes, it isn’t just used by Millennials regardless of the stereotype) and actually head to the store to try it on and maybe even buy. Why is it that despite the two consumers seeing the item on the same source only one leads to a potential sale? It all comes down to money. Teenagers, and even most millennials, aren’t often in a position to be spending money on luxury items, and if they are it tends to be accessories, shoes, and, increasingly so, streetwear. Gen X and above are. I understand that brands are targeting millennials because they are going to be the next generation of consumers to really keep the brands going, but I do think it’s important not to overlook your key demographic because they can be the ones keeping the company afloat.

Now this actual collection was loosely inspired by the 1940s, seen in the skirt suits and silhouettes. However, what stood out to me was all of the patterned pieces. Perhaps in 2004, we were all a lot more accepting of colors and prints. Nowadays, with minimalism thoroughly ingrained into our brains and way of dress, prints can seem too much, even though maximalism is making it’s way back. I feel like nowadays the focus is more on solid colors and also textures (perhaps a metallic yarn woven into a knit) instead of pretty florals, but I could be wrong. Also, I really liked the runway. The lights were cool but not at all distracting. I think it would’ve been fun to attend a fashion show, even ten years ago, before camera phones took over and every moment was documented. I’m not the biggest Marc Jacobs fan but I did like a lot of his work for Louis Vuitton.

PS – Apologies for the low quality images. I haven’t come across HQs yet.

15 Looks Nicki Minaj Should Wear From The Spring 2016 Collections

Nicki Minaj is a queen. I truly mean that. I feel like she’s someone whose popularity is continuing to soar and I’m so happy about that. Something that I think has boosted her fame is her image overhaul which began around the time she joined American Idol. She stopped wearing the colourful wigs, wild make-up, and out-there outfits, and toned her look down – natural hair, more “normal” make-up, and a mix of high-end designer and fast-fashion clothes. To put it simply, she had a make-under. Whilst I do miss her old sense of style (it was so fun), I think she looks amazing now. For example, the VMA dress was a killer.

I find it fun to try and predict what Nicki is going to wear next, especially because she attends a few fashion shows nowadays and actually works with a brilliant stylist, Rushka Bergman, to create her red-carpet/event looks. There are a few designers who she clearly favours: the Alexanders (Wang & McQueen), namely. I’ll choose looks from designers I know she likes and also ones which I think she would like to be introduced to. I’m going to pick 15 different designers and select looks from their shows which I think she should wear (yes, I’m totally cheating with this post title). When I did this before, I actually got a couple looks spot-on that she wore. I wonder if the same will happen this time.

Also, on the topic of Nicki, read this NY Times profile – it’s amazing.

Jeremy Scott

Nicki used to wear a lot of Jeremy Scott back in the days when she used to dress more kooky and she still does wear a lot of his designs for Moschino. I think she would look great in this checkerboard cardigan, mixed and matched with this printed bikini. I think this would work great for a music video.

Givenchy

Another brand that Nicki seems to be rather fond of, Givenchy is a show which she actually attended in New York (wearing the designer head-to-toe, naturally). There were quite a few looks which stood out to me and I think would work, depending on the occasion. The first would be the dress which Joan Smalls wore – the black gown with the full skirt and fur – which I think would only be appropriate for a grand red carpet event (Oscars, Grammys, Met Gala) but I’m not sure there’s anything coming up soon that this would suit. The cross-over top and skirt combination that Pooja Mor wore would work well for a more casual event, however it isn’t often that you see Nicki in that type of neckline. Finally, I think that the feathered jacket with the bejewelled top and trousers would look insane. Nicki doesn’t often wear trousers to events but I think this could look great. Conversely, the trousers could easily be swapped out for a black pencil skirt. I’d go for Stuart Weitzman’s Nudist shoes in black with all of these looks.

Zac Posen

I’m not sure that Nicki has even worn a lot of Zac Posen but I wish she would – a ball gown would look fabulous. However, the look that I am going to suggest is the black bandeau strapless dress with the full skirt and slight tiers. I think this would look amazing if she had her hair down in a centre-part, a dark red or wine lip, and pointed black suede heels (Manolo Blahnik or Jimmy Choo perhaps).

Burberry

There’s three different looks that I think could work from the Burberry show. The first is the long dress with the full skirt and sheer panels. I think Nicki would wear this firstly because it has transparent sections and therefore it would show off her insane body, and secondly because she has favoured a fuller skirt in the past. I’d also like to see her wear this black coat with gold details. I think this would work for a casual look (perhaps paired with some items from Fashion Nova, a store that she seems to love nowadays). Finally, I think this short taupe dress would work well. As I said before, she used to wear full skirts quite often and this one reminds me of Alexander McQueen dresses which she has been seen wearing before. I think the details on this are so pretty too.

Moschino

As I said before, Nicki likes Moschino. I think it’s a bit of a throwback to the wild outfits she wore when she was first blowing up. I think she’d buy these two t-shirt dresses because they’re both rather funny (the second being a Chanel-logo parody, another brand she’s fond of), maybe the boots, and also this coat. The coat reminded me of the one she wore for a Casio event in New York back in 2012.

Monique Lhuillier

The only time I can remember Nicki wearing Monique Lhuillier before was at the AMAs a few years ago when she wore the bright yellow gown – it was quite a moment. This look I’ve chosen is more casual than a full-on gown. On the runway it is styled with a white top underneath but I propose we remove that and just have the floral crop-top and skirt instead. This is a look that I really really really want to see her in because I can just imagine it looking so brilliant.

Christian Dior

Now that we know that this is Raf’s final collection for Dior, I feel that Nicki needs to wear something from the collection. I mean, who knows what the next collection will be like or who the hell will be designing it? Maybe the floral set was an omen that I missed – taking it full circle. I chose this simple jacket-dress, reminiscent of the infamous Bar Jacket. Hey, you’ve got to try the classics at least once right? Pair it with some tough looking boots and all will be good. I’m thinking something by Saint Laurent or Giuseppe Zanotti.

Balenciaga

Since I didn’t include any mainline Alexander Wang in this list, I thought I’d better include something from his swan song for Balenciaga. I see that next season will be one of change – will Nicki even wear Balenciaga if it isn’t designed by Wang? I opted for this white look with the shaping around the breasts, because I can only imagine that it would look better on someone with fuller breasts than the model – no offence intended, I’m in the small group too. Louis Vuitton

I went for this pink biker jacket from Nicolas’ latest collection. It reminded me of when Nicki used to be like Barbie. If only she’d go for one of the old Barbie necklaces with it. That would make my life. I can imagine her wearing this casually, perhaps shopping, flying, or the likes (I don’t know how she spends her downtime).

Alexander McQueen

Instead of going for one of the flowery, floaty looks from this show I propose something a little different – my favourite look in fact. Jeans and a top. I can see her going for this entire look to be honest. To make it perfect, I’d like black hair in a bun with a fringe, but that may be too much to ask!

Versace

I loved this season’s Versace. Raquel Zimmerman opened it by stomping down the runway in this khaki blazer which I’d love to see Nicki in. I also really like this dress which Gigi Hadid wore but I fear that it might be too associated with her already for someone else to wear it and nobody really wants a “who wore it better?” moment, so I think Natasha Poly’s could be a close alternative.

Oscar de la Renta

This dress was just so pretty that I couldn’t not include it on this list. I can imagine this with a centre-parted wavy hairstyle and matching lipstick. I know Nicki used to favour Oscar so maybe its time she wore something from the brand again.

Altuzarra

My favourite New York designer’s clothes have never been worn by Nicki as far as I know. That should change. I went for this exotic skin coat because I feel like it is her down to a tee – glamorous and luxurious and so fucking expensive. This would be a great introduction to the brand’s clothing.

Anthony Vaccarello

This dress may be pushing the limits a little in terms of how risque Nicki is willing to dress. However, if she’ll push the boundaries this far I’d be impressed. I loved Vaccarello’s show and this was one of my favourite dresses from it.

Ashish

The first thing I’ll say about this is that I suggest hiking the skirt up over the belly button to make it high waisted. I think that would look better (more flattering) and also show less unnecessary stomach. This is one of the looks that I think she’s least likely to wear, but I’ll include it anyway. Oh, and change the shoes too.

So there’s 15 different designers, a few more looks. You’ll probably have noticed that there’s a few major brands who I’ve left out – Balmain, Alexander Wang, and Chanel are just a few – and the reason for this was rather simple: I couldn’t see any looks that I’d put her in. I can guarantee that she’ll wear quite a few pieces from Balmain (she always does), maybe something from T by Alexander Wang or a custom modified runway piece (I couldn’t see any straight-off-the-runway that I’d put her in), and she’ll buy a few bags and maybe shoes from Chanel.

Is there a glaringly obvious look you think I’ve missed? Let me know. Apart from that, I’m fairly confident in my choices. I hope she wears at least one. Ruskha, it’s over to you now.

Fashion Flashback: Louis Vuitton Spring 2008

Apologies that the video for this show is poor in quality and also in 3 parts, I couldn’t find a HQ version (if you know where to find one, let me know). However, it’s good to watch regardless. I’ve also linked the photos here (via style.com). This is a heavily shared collection on social media and I often see the nurses outfits circulating on Tumblr. The high-fashion nurses is more fantasy than reality, like what a man in a coma would dream of waking up to… I imagine. The dresses worn underneath the sheer shirt-dresses are satin bustiers with a pencil skirt, and the combination of them with the fishnet veil and the hat (which are arranged to spell out Louis Vuitton, of course) is flirty and fun.

Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton was so much fun. He often produced collections that were memorable, especially years afterwards. Sometimes I’m a little bit sad that he’s gone, especially since I’ve always preferred his work at Louis Vuitton to his namesake label, but I really do love Nicolas Ghesquiere in the role so I can’t complain too much.

Besides the nurses outfits, the rest of the collection was pretty solid too. It’s funny looking at ready-to-wear shows from the past and remembering how they influenced the clothes sold on the high street at the time. Also, it’s fun seeing celebrities who wore the looks. For example, Dita Von Teese (my love) wore the black asymmetric top from look 64. Plus, I adore the bags that the nurses carried. Don’t you?


Read more

Louis Vuitton Palm Springs – Cruise 2016

You don’t expect fashion shows in California. Name a few big name designers who show at Los Angeles Fashion Week. It’s difficult, right? Most people when they think of California, they think of the beach, the free-spirited hippies, maybe even hipsters. But I think that might be changing. For one, Hedi Slimane moved the Saint Laurent offices to LA, but lots of you don’t like him so maybe he’s not the best example. Recently, Burberry put on a grand show in the Griffith Observatory to celebrate the opening of a new store on Rodeo Drive (and Rachel Zoe wore a brilliant dress to the event). And now, Nicolas Ghesquiere, everyone’s favourite fashion designer, decided to show the Cruise/Resort (once again, whatever your preferred terminology) collection in Palm Springs. Perhaps Southern California is the new New York?

The show was held at Bob Hope’s estate, a futuristic home that looks like it’s straight out of a sci-fi movie, and was attended by buyers, press, and celebrities, as you’d expect. I found a few more photos of the venue on The Telegraph website and it is simply amazing. If I had a spare $25 million, I’d buy it.

But the focus shouldn’t all be on the venue, but more so on the clothes. As Nicolas has done since he took the helm at Louis Vuitton a year ago, certain codes have been stuck to. For example, suede, leather, and metal riveting and studs featured heavily. As did an interesting triangle shaped cut-out on the midriff. I think that a triangle cut-out is probably the most flattering as the skin shown tapers to a point. There was also a wonderful leather jacket, worn by Mica Arganaraz, which looked almost weightless, due to laser-cut patterns all over, and created a feminine silhouette, cinched in at the waist. There were slip-dresses, exotic skins, tiny short-shorts, beautiful petrol blue bomber jackets, and a fantastic layered necklace spelling out “Palm Springs” that gave the I <3 NY t-shirts a run for their money. Also, there were wonderful prints. I’m not a print wearer, but I could change that for Nicolas Ghesquiere.