Tag: tom ford

Tom Ford is moving to Los Angeles

A look from Tom Ford’s Spring 2017 collection, the last “see now, buy now” offering

Newsflash: Tom Ford is relocating his offices to Los Angeles. Why does this matter to you? Honestly, it represents the shift in the fashion industry from a highly structured, regimented machine to a more free-flowing, space-for-everyone kind of place that it is today. Think about it, nobody is sticking to a strict timetable now. Some brands are doing “see now, buy now”, some brands are doing “see now, preorder now” and some brands are just sticking to the regular old timetable. Then it comes down to fashion week scheduling. The official calendar, in New York at least, doesn’t mean much given that brands are choosing to show outside of the city (often in LA). Some are taking it even further than that and showing on a calendar entirely of their own (Vetements and Public School are the two most prominent examples). We are at a period of change in the fashion industry and who knows what things will look like in five years time.

Tom Ford moving to LA is exciting to me, because hopefully others will follow suit. LA began to have its moment when Hedi Slimane relocated the YSL offices there a few years back. Now that he has left his role there and creative control has been handed back to Paris, there was a slight void in the newfound high fashion spot. Tom Ford has filled it, quite literally, by taking over the old office space that the Saint Laurent team previously occupied. Off Highland, on Santa Monica Boulevard, the space is below Hollywood yet close enough to remember you’re in La La Land.

In the past, collectively people have associated LA fashion with surfers and beaches and maybe even denim. However, it is becoming so much more than that. Whilst it is true that celebrity reigns supreme in Los Angeles, the art scene is growing and the fashion scene is becoming a lot more legitimate. Other brands that have design offices here, or are entirely based in the city, include & Other Stories, the Swedish “atelier-based” chain under the H&M umbrella, Elizabeth & James (Mary-Kate and Ashley’s second line) and Rodarte. FarFetch, the e-commerce giant, has an office with 120 employees Downtown. I’d like to see a shift in the industry to more brands relocating to LA, or at least opening smaller satellite offices.

Personally, I’d like to move to LA one day. Sometime after I graduate I hope to live in California and enjoy the weather. However, a career is also insanely important to me and I wouldn’t like to think that I’d be forfeiting it by leaving New York. With more brands starting to make the switch to the West Coast, that looks less and less likely. Currently the Los Angeles fashion industry is very much celebrity driven. Most fashion stylists working out there are in celebrity styling/event dressing. Think of the Hollywood Reporter’s annual list of the Most Powerful Stylists. Everyone on there does red carpet dressing. PR companies based there are in the same field. It makes sense given that Hollywood is the center of the entertainment industry. I’d like the option of doing e-commerce or editorial styling, alongside celebrity styling too. It’s interesting to see what the future holds.

Fashion Flashback: Gucci Fall 1996

Tom Ford’s Gucci is associated with sex. That’s the key word that people always use to describe his work at the house, and can you blame them? Button down shirts unbuttoned all the way down, floor length furs, shirts and dresses cut down to the naval were all staples of his era. There were also pant suits with pinstripes and some nice overcoats. However, they were paired with the aforementioned shirts. Everything was sexed up. It worked. In a time where models were critcised for not being sexy, Tom Ford dressed them in a way that may have looked too much on the 80s supers.

Models like Kate Moss, Kirsty Hume, and Jodie Kidd all walked in this show, each wearing multiple looks and looking great in each and every one of them. The most iconic pieces from this collection were the Halston-esque white jersey dresses at the end. They were almost understated with random cut outs that were much more risque at the time than they are now.  The campaign images, on the other hand, are still fairly shocking now because of just how suggestive they are.

I feel like Tom’s Gucci collections have got less and less shocking as time goes by, purely because almost everything has been done now. We are desensitised to nudity and sex because it is commonplace. Fashion has perhaps gone as far as it can. Whilst Tom’s looks were boundary pushing at the time, they’re fairly tame for nowadays. In this collection in particular there are no micro minis and the models are actually covered up. Of course, Tom did do collections that were more like what I just described also (Spring 2003 in particular) but this one was actually fairly tame, despite the shock it caused.

London Fashion Week Highlights – Fall 2015

London Fashion Week has gone so fast. I think it is because New York dragged on for so long that anything else would’ve felt like a flash. I almost didn’t write this post as I thought I was so late, but what the heck, why not? As I’ve said so many times before, London is not my favourite of the fashion weeks. I probably wouldn’t feel that I had missed out if I hadn’t looked at any of the shows. However, there are a few brands that show here that I do love season after season and am always glad to see (think David Koma, Felder Felder etc). I feel like I have experienced all that London Fashion Week has to offer me via instagram. It has been so oversaturated. Another thing about London is that there seems to be a hell of a lot of bloggers in attendance, you know, bloggers that have nothing to do with the shows. I digress… Anyhow, let us begin the important stuff – the reviews – and ignore the rest. It was just a long rambling introduction anyway.

 SIMONE ROCHA

I think Simone Rocha will be a firm favourite of mine in London for years to come. She has only been showing for a few years but each collection she has put out so far has been well received critically and she has a talent that could fool you into thinking she has been at this for decades. Her talent is unsurprising given her father (also a designer) as it is said that some talents are inherited, artistic ability specifically. But perhaps in her case it is both nature and nurture. She went to art school, then graduated from the prestigious MA Fashion programme at Central Saint Martins. This collection, in particular, was said to reference her art school thesis, therefore it is really going back to her roots and what first inspired her as a designer. Gone is the bubblegum pink of a few seasons ago, returning is the moody dark velvet, and in comes the tapestry-like fabrics too. I appreciate how there is always a story, a real source of inspiration, behind Rocha’s collections as you can tell real thought has gone into them. For that reason, they are never derivative and that is something that is quite rare nowadays.

DAVID KOMA

I will say it time and time again: I love David Koma. When he was appointed to the role at Mugler, I rejoyced. Luckily I don’t think the dual-role thing has had much effect on his designs for his own line. They are the same as ever. Whether that is good or not, I’m not sure. I don’t think much changes from season to season with him, perhaps because his design aesthetic just remains the same. I don’t take issue with that because I always like most of what he produces, but in an industry that is all about progress and forward thinking, it may become an issue in the near future. There’s usually leather, there’s almost always cut-outs, and there is always a dash of sex. And that’s what works. The modern take he did on the bell sleeves, however, was a little different.

FELDER FELDER

If there’s one thing I cannot resist, it is fur on a baby. I love it. Ok, it doesn’t have to be real fur but the whole look of it is so cute. My friend bought her niece an adorable faux-fur coat from Zara last year when she was just a little baby and she looked so darling in it that I felt myself melting. Scroll through to the last look on the Felder Felder show and you’ll see the designers taking a bow, you know, with fur-wearing baby in their arms – soooooooo cute. The baby’s coat matched the models who, for the final few looks, wore colourful fur coats in bright turquoise and red, with contrasting coloured cuffs, and to top it all off, the coats were belted – I adored them. As for the rest of the collection, it was rock-n-roll-style, liberated women. There were many sheer pieces, lots of glitz and super short skirts. Basically, I’m looking for a cool girl in a band to snap the collection up and wear it on tour. Who is the modern day Courtney Love? Or perhaps Courtney herself could still wear it?

TOPSHOP UNIQUE

I, like many other Brits, have a great loyalty towards Topshop. It is a high-street favourite, known for its popularity within the fashion world – a great achievement for a fast-fashion brand who often derives its ideas from the high fashion world (just like every other fast-fashion brand does). Topshop seems to have avoided the fate of being labelled a copier like Zara or Forever 21, and perhaps have done so due to this Topshop Unique line. The clothes themselves are only sold in a select number of Topshop stores, and usually online, and have a more high end price point (think £300 for a coat instead of £80 in the mainline). It helps that the creative director of the brand is Kate Phelan, a British Vogue veteran who left to work with Topshop but still contributes to the magazine frequently: I think she gives the line a certain legitimacy. This collection was said to be inspired by rich English girls (a.k.a anybody who you’d find in Tatler magazine), the kind of girl who wakes up flawless, to paraphrase Beyonce. I think the collection was great, with the exception of a few pieces including the fuzzy, ostrich looking bodices on some of the final dresses. Apart from that, I’d say it was a win.

TOM FORD

Tom Ford showed his collection in LA after NYFW had ended. It was officially on the London calendar on Style.com, however. The timing of the event was odd. When it was first announced that Tom Ford would be showing in Los Angeles, people didn’t really understand why. But what’s to understand? Many editors and celebrities (both permanent fixtures at the shows) hadn’t yet jetted off to London. Anna Wintour was at the Oscars this weekend, as were many celebrities who feature prominently at fashion weeks. Does this mean people are skipping London all together? I don’t know. I think it was interesting to see the amount of top models who stayed for the show: Sasha Luss, Gigi Hadid (I know, I hate to call her a top model but she has been walking a lot of shows), Lexi Boling, Karlie Kloss… The show was filled with celebrities like Beyonce and Jay-Z (obviously), Miley Cyrus (who is growing on me as I feel bad for her sometimes), and Naomi Campbell, among others. Everybody donned their sexiest get-ups because this was Tom Ford and he’s the master of that shit. The collection itself was fun. I could’ve done without all the denim but apart from that it worked. I think it was part-Victorian, part-rich-Mob-wife, part-Cowgirl, part-hippy-art-student, and as odd a combination as that sounds, it all meshed together oddly well. I don’t know, maybe I’m going mad.

PS – Lindsey Wixson’s look was the best.

And the rest…

I loved the trumpet skirt of this dress at Mario Schwab, the blood orange colour is so eye catching. It reminds me of Mac’s Vegas Volt lipstick.

I’ve seen a lot of talk saying that perhaps Christopher Kane should’ve been hired for the Gucci role, and I think I’m starting to agree. Or maybe not agree but I definitely see where they’re coming from. I think it’s too soon to judge Gucci’s new creative team (especially since we haven’t even seen a womenswear collection yet). However, Kane’s collection shown in London was brilliant. It had sharp tailoring (look how cinched in at the waist this is!), a brilliant blue crocodile coat – slightly reminiscent of the petrol blue glossy leather coat at Miu Miu last season but distinct enough to not be a copy -, a dress with bandage style wraps that was very Proenza (but even Proenza’s weren’t brand new) that was purely coincidental, and finally a long dress which looked very much like a painting come to life, complete with limbs.

Barbara Casasola created a collection full of wearable separates and dresses. I loved these two looks (x & y).

This one look at Pringle of Scotland was great, so wearable and so easy to recreate. I still find it weird seeing Pringle shows as I totally associate that brand with my grandad who wears the jumpers whilst playing golf. Hey, maybe grandparents are fashionable after all?

Holly Fulton’s use of sheer organza was insane. These two tops in particular (x & y) were so stunning and had the perfect amount of glitter on them without making them look cheap. Also, this dress was pretty. I’d buy it.

This Season’s Trends Explained: Spring 2015

Back when the season was Spring 2015, I made a post on how to wear the trends of the season. Looking back on it, the post was rubbish, awful, terrible – any adjective meaning the same thing applies to it. I skipped out making one for the Fall/Winter 2014 season, purely because I forgot about it, but this season it is back and hopefully a million times better than before. I think my issue last time around was that I identified trends that I didn’t necessarily like myself and/or include any runway images to back up my points. Now as of the time of writing (mid-December), the new season collections aren’t yet in stores nor have the high street stores started offering their own takes so this post is really just predictions. Trends are literally created by agencies and by fashion magazine editors: any common thread between all the shows at fashion week creates a trend. As consumers, we can only buy what is on offer meaning that these editors, agencies and, when it comes down to it, designers have great power in determining what we all will wear. Now instead of explaining the concept of trends, something that I discussed in further detail in a post last year, I am going to get ahead and offer you what I have noticed as being the biggest trends emerging for the upcoming season. I’m going to do it a little bit differently this time, separating everything into 5 distinct categories: colours, prints, materials, vibes and styling tips. Hopefully this will break things down further so instead of attacking a trend head-on and looking like a bit of a disaster, there are ways to do things in a subtle manner and in a way that everybody can try.

COLOURS

  • Army Green – Army green, or khaki, is a colour that is always prevalent on runways and is a staple in all wardrobes. This season it cropped up on the runways of the likes of Gucci, Chanel & Jason Wu. There is usually a sort-of military vibe that comes along with this colour but there are many ways to wear it without looking like you’re in the armed forces. Take Jason Wu’s suede dress with the plunging neckline or the belted trench coat from the same collection that made the colour look completely vamped up.
  • Yellow – Sunshine is a key component of summer so clearly yellow would be a no-brainer for this season. Yellow can be a tricky colour to pull off depending on your skin tone but fortunately there is a shade to suit all; it just usually takes a lot of mistakes to find the perfect one. My personal favourite yellow piece from the catwalk is Cushnie et Ochs’ stunning gold toned dress with the draped silk bodice: the colour popped with Shanina Shaik’s skin. Yellow could also be found at Balmain, Diane von Furstenberg, David Koma and ZAC Zac Posen.
  • Ballerina Pink – You know that pale, near white shade of pink? The one so beautiful and feminine that you cannot help but love it? I am somebody that wears black every day without fail but I have a soft spot for this colour purely because it makes one look ethereal. Picture it on the catwalks in the form of flowing dresses and skirts, flared trousers and flimsy fabrics. Seen mainly at Narciso Rodriguez, BCBG Max Azria and Alberta Ferretti, it is coincidental that these three shows turned out to be among my most favourites?

 PRINTS

  • Gingham – The classic check, often synonymous with tablecloths or Brigitte Bardot, is back. To be honest, it has never really left. Almost every summertime it comes back around, probably because it brings ideas of sunshine and picnics with it. The pattern was seen most prominently at Diane von Furstenberg who used many different colours of the well-loved print in many different ways – my personal favourite was the gingham trousers, you can get a similar pair from missguided.com just now (linked).
  • Polka Dots – A print that is commonly associated with children or kitsch house decorations has been spotted on quite a few runways. Differing in size and colours, my favourite versions were at Dolce & Gabbana. They were interestingly incorporated into designs, mixed in with florals, lace and mesh.
  • Florals – Yes, I know what you’re thinking: “Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking”. The infamous quote from The Devil Wears Prada is so apt and so telling. It is true that literally every summer season, florals are around. It is totally unoriginal and slightly unimaginative to highlight them as a trend but really, they are impossible to ignore. From classic rose-type prints at Dolce & Gabbana to the beautiful watercolour creations at Chanel to the 3-D hippy-esque styles at Marchesa to the subtler orange print at Altuzarra, each brand offering florals were offering something quite distinct. That’s why it is impossible to ignore the trend. Even if you don’t like the cutesy florals, go for the more digital prints. If you don’t like obvious, stylised florals, look to Chanel’s blurred watercolour ones. Honestly, there is something for everyone.

 

MATERIALS

  • Leather – A material that previously remained exclusive for bikers and the cool kids, leather has now been democratised. For the past few, perhaps 5 years, everyone has owned a leather jacket: now it has gone further. Leather skirts, coats, trousers, t-shirts, dresses, bralets – anything and everything. This season it is not just Hedi Slimane who has been championing the material but also Miuccia Prada, both at Prada (who had the most insane leather trench coats that I have fallen in love with) and Miu Miu (a glossy red trench coat was striking along with an even better turquoise version). According to fashion designers, leather is perfect for any occasion and any season – who cares if it is sweltering hot in summer?
  • Suede – With the heavy seventies influence that has swept like a tidal wave this season, suede is the obvious choice of material for designers. If you can’t wait, have a look at Topman’s LTD line for some brilliant offerings including a bomber jacket and a sheepskin collared western jacket that is very similar to Jared Leto’s in Girl, Interrupted. Yes, I know that Topman is menswear but if you get a small enough size they can be oversized without drowning you – they start at mens XXS. On the catwalk, have a look at both Emilio Pucci and Gucci for their take on the fabric.
  • Denim – Designer denim is back and in a big way. Quite a few brands showcased some jeans with brilliantly encrusted ones from Dolce & Gabbana (my favourite item from the entire season) to regular ones at Gucci (not skinny jeans though, perhaps we truly are moving away from them?) and more at both Fendi and Alberta Ferretti. I even considered saving up to buy the Dolce & Gabbana jeans, until I found out about the $12,500 price tag.
  • Sheer – As always, see-through sheer fabrics rule. Season upon season, sheer fabrics of all kinds are seen on the runway at various brands. Balenciaga featured what I would say is the most with larger fishnet styles of mesh to ruched gauzy material on sleeves and shoulders. There were strategically placed embroideries at Francesco Scognamiglio on some beautiful floor-length dresses. However, I’d say Tom Ford was the most daring with dresses made almost exclusively of gauze with coverings over the model’s modesty…

 

 VIBES

  • Hippy/Bohemian – If last season was all about the 60s, naturally, like the passing of time, we have now moved into the next decade. The seventies are now the time period of choice for designers, reflected in the choice of fabrics, silhouettes and overall feels of collections. However, there are two distinct takes on the 70s: one being the bohemian look of the late 60s that ended mid-70s (it is said to have ended when Nixon resigned in 1974) and the other being the disco, hedonistic Studio 54 style glitz and glamour. For the bohemian look, look towards Emilio Pucci, Marchesa and Tommy Hilfiger for the flower-power inspired designs.
  • Studio 54 – The legendary nightclub was just as famed for its fashions as it was its antics. Images of celebrities such as Bianca Jagger, Jerry Hall, Andy Warhol, all the supermodels of the time, and basically anybody who was anybody were seen there. It is known for its over-the-top madness and glamour. Look to Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent, Lanvin or Tom Ford this season for what seems like their take on the time period.
  • Ethereal – The definition of ethereal is “extremely delicate and light in a way that seems to be not of this world”. Upon hearing that I imagine pale colours, flowing fabrics and pretty dresses – a look that many designers actually showed this season. Take a look at Alberta Ferretti, BCBG Max Azria, Elie Saab and also Rodarte (think of the flowy, mermaid dresses).

 

STYLING TIPS

  • Obi Belts – Tied like a kimono or a dressing gown, however you choose how to think of it, the belt is a key part of looks this season. Especially important with oversized, floaty garments, the belt ties it in and gives you some shape whilst also adding a nonchalant, relaxed look. It pulls an outfit together without looking like you tried really hard. Look to BCBG Max Azria for my personal favourite take on the trend.
  • Mismatched Earrings – If last season focused specifically on wearing just one earring, this time around feel free to wear two. However, they need not match. Various brands showed models with mismatched earrings in shape, size and colour. So if you’re like me and lose almost every pair of earrings you buy (not even kidding), it is time to pull out all of those odd ones and mix and match.
  • Shoulders Out – Yes, off-the-shoulder styles are a big deal. Sorry if you’re somebody who hates your shoulders because they are revealed a lot this season. Off-the-shoulder looks were prominent at Balenciaga and Balmain but there are also many different ways to wear the trend. For example, interesting straps such as those at Givenchy or halternecks like at Alexander Wang show off shoulders without cutting straight across.shoulders