Tag: vanity fair

Weekly Words: 16th September 2017

Departures & New Arrivals

There has been a lot of movement already this fashion month and we just left New York. Instead of the changes coming at the fashion houses, it’s the media side of things where all of the changes are happening – specifically, in editorial staff at the top American magazines. In a somewhat shocking move, it was announced that Graydon Carter, 25 year editor of Vanity Fair, was stepping down from his position at the end of the year. This is a loss that will definitely be felt, from his often hilarious editor’s letter to his casual beef with the president and his overarching presence on the whole world of Vanity Fair as a whole. It is the only magazine which I can consistently read cover to cover and I hope the quality remains high. There is currently no word yet on who his replacement will be but apparently he left to protect himself from having to engage in huge layoffs to his editorial team, something that VF has effectively managed to avoid thus fur but that is inevitable given the Conde Nast giant that backs them and the company-wide restructuring which has cost many employees their jobs. In the same week, Conde Nast lost another Editor-in-Chief. This time, it was Cindi Leive, 16-year editor of Glamour Magazine. Her successor is also yet to be announced although there are a couple of internal Conde Nast names in the running including the Teen Vogue EIC, Elaine Welteroth (NY Times did a great profile on her recently). However, I’d love it if Welteroth would stay at Teen Vogue because she has really changed that magazine for the better, making its content arguably more substantial than any other teen magazine in history, competing with major digital platforms like Refinery29. I find myself reading Teen Vogue articles online daily and I’m not even in their core target demographic anymore.

The next departure is that of Robbie Myers from Elle Magazine. Another editor-in-chief who has been at their position for almost two decades, Myers left to spend more time with her family and has instead moved to a consulting role for Hearst, the owner of Elle and rival of Conde Nast. Both of the major publishing companies have made changes in the past week. Myers replacement was announced very quickly though, giving the idea that her decision has been known about much longer than Carter’s at VF. Nina Garcia, a beloved editor and public figure (think Project Runway), is the new EIC, effective next Monday. I’m excited about this announcement because I think it is a role that Garcia definitely deserves. She does a lot of good things in the industry and seems to be a genuine, nurturing person who cares about fashion and wants to see young designers grow and flourish. I’m glad that I renewed my Elle subscription because I’m excited to see what direction she will take the magazine in.

Finally, NYLON Magazine, a top indie magazine of the 2000s turned e-commerce site / blog, has shuttered its print division, ceasing publication of the magazine (digital only now) and firing their entire print staff. This news has been met with fury from many staffers who feel they were the heart and soul of the magazine. It is horrible when people are thrown out of their jobs with no warning, and especially when the company didn’t even try to transition them into the digital roles. How could your print beauty editor not write the same stories for online? Seems crazy. NYLON isn’t a magazine that I have ever read or really connected to so I don’t take this loss too personally, but I do think it is sad because I am a big fan of print magazine and I don’t want to see the industry crumble. There are always whispers of which publication will go down next and it is sad when they actually do. Digital isn’t the only way forward, you know. If magazines don’t have the budget to produce monthly, they should go quarterly. Take CR Fashion Book as an example of a great fashion magazine which started off independent and then was bought by a large publishing house (whilst still retaining it’s publishing calendar). Then there are smaller publications like Emily Oberg’s Sporty & Rich, which is essentially a zine that she publishes periodically. Maybe small is the way to go? Whatever the solution, in my opinion, going digital only isn’t the best idea. How do you convert your print readership to digital only? How do you push through all of the noise online? These are things that magazines and their higher-ups need to work out.

Myers and Garcia

December’s Best Covers

December isn’t an important month in magazines. I suppose there are sometimes a few festive covers but apart from that it isn’t usually a stand-out edition. However, this year there are quite a few covers that I really liked so I thought I’d compile a list.

1 – Harper’s Bazaar Argentina

Mica Arganaraz’s cover is my favourite of the month. She looks so beautiful, as usual, and I like the colour of the background. I find it quite different and striking as a result.

2 – Vogue Italia

Gigi Hadid stars in a fun and colourful VI cover which actually has a fold-out. I feel like this is one that you would be instantly drawn to on a busy news stand.

3 – Vanity Fair

Bill Murray is an unlikely cover star for a fashion magazine, but Vanity Fair is more than that. I really think the content makes it worthwhile. To me, this is a Hollywood Christmas complete with humour. Life is a party, right?

4 – Vogue Germany

Liya Kebede is one of the most stunning models out there. She truly is beautiful. I liked this cover because it was quite dark and subdued. Also, the Balenciaga dress looks so good.

5 – British Vogue

Karlie Kloss reminded me of Natasha Poly in this shot. I like the backless dress and the colours are very Christmassy (is that a word?). It is also nice to see Karlie credited as something other than Taylor Swift’s friend.

The Best Covers: May 2015

Now there’s nothing significant about the month of May in magazine publishing. It’s not March or September (when the new season collections are released) so there is rarely the big hype around the covers. It just so happens that this year, the May covers are brilliant. From Rihanna’s V Magazine to Joan Smalls’ Lucky, and the brilliant Met Ball inspired photoshoot for Vogue, there was a lot to like. I’ve already done a separate post on Blake Lively’s Allure cover so check that out too!

V MAGAZINE

I thought that Rihanna looked a lot like Nicki Minaj in this photoshoot, and she looked damn good. Well, maybe not like Nicki, facially, but I feel that the shoot had to be Nicki-inspired at least. The blonde wig with bangs was similar to what Nicki used to wear back in 2011-2012 (don’t quote me on the dates, I’ve gotten a little rusty), as did the blue eyeshadow with the pink lip. Basically, if there wasn’t a photo of Nicki on the moodboard for the shoot, they’re doing her a damn disservice. Also, the hair was slightly Lil Kim circa 2000, or Nicki in 2010. I’ll attach photos for reference. My heart broke twice when I was looking for the photos: firstly, because I used to have what can only be described as an archive of every photoshoot Nicki Minaj was ever involved in and literally thousands of candids saved on my laptop, but I had to delete them due to lack of storage space, and secondly because when I was searching for the Lil Kim photos (I googled Lil Kim blonde hair 2000), hundreds of photos of Kim Kardashian came up…. To summarise, Rihanna looked hot and I like (what I’m assuming was) the inspiration behind the shoot.

LUCKY MAGAZINE

Joan Smalls fronts the cover of Lucky, a magazine that I have literally never read in my life. All I know about it is that it was owned by Conde Nast, it does e-commerce, and that Eva Chen is the editor. This cover is stunning and accessible. I think it is the type of cover that will draw in people across the country. Sometimes fashion magazines can be intimidating, a scowling model on the cover in some high fashion garb that the masses don’t care about. This is a cover that has a happy model in a pretty dress holding a bunch of flowers. I like it. It helps that Joan Smalls is stunningly beautiful…

VOGUE PARIS

France’s version of Vogue, one of my favourite editions, has come under fire for the lack of models of colour that it uses. Their response? Put Liya Kebede on the cover. Now I think Liya is perhaps one of the most underrated models out there. She has been working for a decade (at least), and looks as good now as she did when she first started. I think it is important to note that the last time she had a Vogue Paris cover, under Carine Roitfeld, she had the entire issue dedicated to her (way back in 2002). She is also the first black cover girl in 5 years, and is the first under Emanuelle Alt, who became editor back in 2011. Also, don’t you think her Dior ensemble is perhaps the least Dior look ever? To me, it looks like Versus or Fausto Puglisi.

VANITY FAIR

This is my favourite magazine ever, and this is a damn good cover. Vanity Fair is like reading a newspaper but with only interesting stories inside. Sofia Vergara wears Zac Posen on the cover, and she looks beautiful. I can only dream of looking as good as her at 42.

AMERICAN VOGUE

I wasn’t wild on the cover this month but inside there is an editorial starring Fei Fei Sun that is pretty great. As most of you will know, the upcoming Met Ball/Gala (I don’t know what the preferred term is, both are used), has a “Chinese Whispers” theme, meaning lots of Eastern influences. This translated into a photoshoot for Vogue, starring a Chinese model (thank God they didn’t just use a white girl), but completely lacked any Asian designers. However, the images were just beautiful despite that. Vintage Alexander McQueen, John Galliano (at Dior), Jean Paul Gaultier, and Chanel (by Lagerfeld, not Coco) were all used, and not a new piece was in sight. Slightly off-topic, but I love how American Vogue tells a story with their captions instead of just listing the designer and the price. This editorial has got me excited for the Met Gala!