Tag: Versace

Weekly Words: 16th December 2017

Versace SS18 Campaign

Shot by Steven Meisel and starring many of the original supermodels from Gianni Versace’s iconic shows, Versace’s SS18 campaign is nostalgic and superb. The entire collection was a tribute to Gianni Versace, comprised of archivally-inspired pieces and prints. The campaign continues with the same theme and provides us with a much welcomed injection of glamour and fun in this dreary world.

“Salma Hayek: Harvey Weinstein is my monster too” – The New York Times

In the scandal that never seems to settle, Salma Hayek has come forward with her own story about Harvey Weinstein from the time of when she was developing and shooting the movie Frida, based on the life story of Frida Kahlo. Her story, penned as a personal essay, detailed the incidents which took place in great detail and shows a lot of emotion. She spoke of an incident during the filming, which quickly descended into a hellish experience, where he pressured her into doing a lesbian sex scene with co-star Ashley Judd, aka the actress who first came forward with her story. It seems that no woman in Hollywood was exempt from his behavior. The day after the story broke, Weinstein’s publicists came out with a statement to deny the claims. Really Weinstein, why even bother?

https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2017/12/13/opinion/contributors/salma-hayek-harvey-weinstein.html

Weekly Words: 14th September 2017

“Made Gold Founder Confronts Good American’s Emma Grede at La Conference Following Copying Claims” – Fashionista

Kylie Jenner in Made Gold – October 2016

Khloe Kardashian’s denim line “Good American” had the most successful launch in history. Since then, the brand has gone from strength to strength, introducing new product lines and receiving distribution in department stores across America. However, the feedback for the brand has not always been positive. The brand has been marred by claims of copying smaller designers, asking for samples of their products then replicating it almost to the stitch and then selling it on their site, reaping all of the products and leaving the smaller, indie designers out of pocket and out of luck. Fortunately, we are in the age of social media which means an unknown can get attention the same way that a celebrity does. Using her Instagram account, Destiney Bleu managed to draw attention to the fact that Good American stole her designs for a line of bejewelled bodysuits. Bleu was later sent a cease-and-desist letter from Good American’s lawyers and the case seems to have stalled since. Another brand which claimed Good American copied their designs is Made Gold, a smaller, indie denim line worn by the likes of Bella Hadid and even Kylie Jenner. A famous style of theirs with laces up the side of the legs was worn by the aforementioned stars before Good American apparently copied it. Instead of using social media, the founder of Made Gold chose to confront the situation directly, using a Q&A section at the Fashion Tech Forum in LA to voice her concerns. Emma Grede, Khloe Kardashian’s founding partner of Good American, instead dodged the question and the panel session ended. Unsurprisingly so, Good American chose to ignore the allegations and act like nothing happened. I think this is a poor strategy. We all know that fashion is an industry that thrives off of copycats: high-end designers copy each other, contemporary designers copy the high-end, and fast-fashion copies them all. By ignoring this process, Grede and Good American made themselves look, once again, untrustworthy and any designers who send their samples to Khloe Kardashian again risks the same copy-cat treatment. Spout off a false line about being influenced by “girls on the street, girls on social media”, whatever. Just don’t ignore it all together.

“FarFetch Is Selling 500 Gianni-era Vintage Versace Pieces” – Fashionista

Following Donatella Versace’s triumphant fashion week tribute to her late brother, Gianni Versace, which was influenced by vintage styles that he designed ranging throughout the 1980s into the early 90s, Versace-mania is back in full-flow. The brand is at the buzziest it has been in years. Smartly so, FarFetch have teamed up with William Vintage, a London-based boutique, to offer a range of archival Versace pieces for sale on their site. Many designs are almost identical to the ones that walked down the runway a couple of weeks ago, but they have the edge given that they are the real, original pieces. FarFetch’s business model is interesting. Their concept is that, instead of having their own inventory and placing a seasonal buy like other e-commerce sites do, they partner with small boutiques around the world, facilitating the distribution of the products and allowing the boutiques to reach a global market that they may not be exposed to if they tried to do it alone. FarFetch, of course, keeps a cut of the profits. I love the company and the whole idea of it, and I truly believe it is one of the most innovative companies in fashion. As for the Versace collection, there are some pretty to-die-for pieces in there – matching skirt suits, leopard printed jackets and leggings, belts and brooches, and baroque prints. The prices are very steep but what you are paying for is a piece of fashion history. I hope one day to build up my own archive of vintage designer pieces, as collectors items, not for wearing. I urge you to check out the edit – here on FarFetch.

 

A $42,000 Gucci fur coat available at FarFetch 
Gucci is the latest brand to bow to pressure and eliminate the fur styles from its product offerings, choosing to auction off the fur inventory, starting early next year. The alternative option which they will likely use is faux-fur, joining the likes of Stella McCartney (also owned by Kering, Gucci’s parent company) and Giorgio Armani. The main reason they cited for the decision to stop using fur was sustainability. I call bullshit. I think they are just trying to get a good reputation in an increasingly socially-conscious, animal-friendly, harm-nobody society that we currently live in. Caring about these things is cool and Gucci likely wants to capitalize on this mindset. Fur, a natural animal based material, is biodegradable. It causes no harm to the planet. Faux-fur, on the other hand, laden with chemical treatments and synthetic materials has been proven to cause environmental damage. We are in a time where the leader of the free world is a climate change denier, despite there being a mountain of evidence (and an increasing number of natural disasters devastating the world) to prove it to be true. In that case, shouldn’t we be looking into more natural products and materials that aren’t harmful? If you don’t want to support the fur trade, you can buy vintage styles. And if you’re wholly opposed to fur, you can just not buy it. Overall, I am just slightly disappointed in Gucci. Whatever.
FarFetch coat – $42,000

Why Do Fashion Brands Continue to Look Back?

It seems that fashion is increasingly referential. Nothing is really new anymore. No new silhouettes are created. No new innovations are made. Nothing. But is this a bad thing? And is it unexpected?

I started to think about this topic after catching up with all of the shows at Milan Fashion Week. There were two brands in particular that I felt specifically looked back in time, into their own archives – Versace and Dolce & Gabbana. However, their techniques were different. Versace was deliberate, Dolce & Gabbana was not.

This season’s Versace show was, as Donatella put it, a tribute to her late brother Gianni Versace, to mark the twenty year anniversary of his death. The show was filled with her takes on his most famous designs. It was like the highlight reel of Gianni Versace’s career and what made him, and the family name, famous and into a brand. Donatella looked back into the archives (no, literally, she went to the physical archives and looked at his pieces) and chose the silhouettes and prints which were most iconic and ran with it. She featured the Marilyn Monroe and James Deen portraits by Andy Warhol (which Gianni turned into a multi-colored, tile print), she used the baroque that was last en vogue back in 2013 when hip-hop artists like Migos and Drake were obsessed with the brand, and the leopard print (most notably, the yellow version worn by Kaia Gerber who opened the show). According to this New York Times article on the show, “Every garment will come complete with a label that notes the collection and the year, so consumers will know the moment of origin.”. It is a way to incorporate the brand’s history into it’s present show but do it in a way that is of the moment but still collectable. I suspect that items from this show will be just as valuable as the originals from 20+ years ago. Many have wondered if this collection was Donatella’s farewell to the brand as rumors about her imminent departure have been swirling for months now, but she says otherwise. It was, in fact, just a tribute to her late and beloved brother. Of course, no mention of this show would be complete without bringing up the finale which featured the supermodels of Gianni’s shows marching out to Freedom ’90, the iconic George Michael song which lent its sounds to a Versace show back in 1991. Of course, the crowd went wild for this. It was nostalgia at its finest, and that’s what made this show great.

The finale gowns at Versace.

Dolce & Gabbana, on the other hand, offered none of the nostalgia factor. They produced a show of beautiful, albeit boring, clothes that could’ve been any one of their shows from the past five years. Dolce & Gabbana refuse to innovate anymore and it has gotten dull. It is hard to believe that 10 years ago, they were one of the main attractions in Milan and they actually made futuristic, fashion-forward styles. Remember the show opened by Snejana Onopka strutting down the light-up runway, after arriving in a glass elevator and descending down some stairs, to the sound of Justin Timberlake’s Sexy Back? That would never happen nowadays. Instead they play it safe, season after season, year after year. I guess they are doing what works for them and their business, but that is why Versace was all over your social media for the entire weekend and Dolce & Gabbana was a blip that almost went unnoticed.

Dolce & Gabbana SS07

Designers often look back though, at their past work (like the No. 21 show, also at Milan Fashion Week), or at the brand’s own heritage. That’s what almost every designer does who becomes the Creative Director of a storied brand, like Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne. The chainmail, futuristic styles are nothing new, but they work and people love them because they look cool. It is said that Alexander McQueen was so impressive because he is one of the only designers of the past quarter century to create a brand new silhouette, the Bumster, the ultra low-rise pant style which exposed the top of the butt and caused women to shave their pubic hair because the top of the area was revealed. When the Bumster trickled down into mainstream fashion, it came in the form of low-rise jeans, beloved by your favorite mid-2000s celebs who loved to show off their g-strings peeking out above their waistband.

McQueen’s Bumster

Maybe this is just how fashion is going to be going forward. It isn’t about innovation. It’s about commercialism. It’s about sales. It’s about social media coverage. It’s about short-term attention. It’s about building a brand. The only way to build a brand is to be consistent, but I believe that there is a way to do it by innovating or making some changes and introducing new things along the way.

SHOPPING FIND: Topshop vs Versace

Left - Versace, Right - Topshop
Left – Versace, Right – Topshop

It has been a while since I’ve done a post like this. However, I was in Topshop this weekend and I spotted these trousers from across the store. I didn’t buy them because I ended up getting this spotty dress instead but it’s likely that I’ll go back and pick them up soon. I was struck by the print and instantly made the connection to Versace’s prints in the Spring 2016 collection. It makes sense that this print is in stores now given that the Versace collection is available for sale now too but I had expected to see inspired pieces sooner actually. I have seen a couple of dresses similar to the finale dresses worn by Gigi Hadid and Natasha Poly floating around the web though so perhaps it is only a matter of time.

The print and cut of the Topshop trousers is slightly different than those shown on the Versace runway. In fact, it is more an amalgamation of different elements of the Versace show in one garment, rolled into an easy, wearable pair of pants, than a direct copy. I could see the clear inspiration though, as soon as I saw the pants hanging on the rail. I can see myself wearing them very often with just a black t-shirt or even a bodysuit to show off the paper bag waist. I love belted pants, truly. 

SHOP ONLINE

Topshop – £29

Versace – £750 (Versace store)/£625 (Tiziana Fausti)

Untitled #527

 

Milan Fashion Week Highlights – Fall 2016

As with London, I’m a little late in writing this for Milan. I have been so busy over the past week or so that I haven’t had the time to even think about fashion week. I see a constant stream of images on Instagram so I know what has been going on but I’m not totally in the loop. It doesn’t help that I just started my Netflix free trial and have become hooked on Suits. Anyway, on to fashion week:

Prada

Firstly, I liked the sailor hats. They were a fun touch and I can definitely imagine some girls wearing them. I’m not sure if any of you have watched her videos but there’s a Youtuber named Sammi Quinn who I think would definitely wear one and look great whilst doing so. Apart from that, I had to dissect every look piece by piece. I find that’s what I have to do with Prada’s shows to see anything in them. The runway looks are always too much at once for me and I need to imagine what the clothes would be like on a rack. For that reason, I loved the coats with the fur trims, especially the leather one pictured above and the hybrid fur sleeve deal (I love the mix of fabrics, just like Sally LaPointe’s fur sleeved sweaters). I also really liked the printed shirts (one is worn in the look with the aforementioned coat) and the patterned long coats. Overall, lots of pieces that I’d buy if I were rich and needing a lot of new, non-basic clothes. It was just a really good collection.

Versace

I really loved the colour scheme at Versace. The black, blues, and salmon pink was fun and pulled the collection together. The knit jumper worn by Natasha Poly stood out to me because it was just so un-Versace in my mind, yet it worked. Outerwear is my favourite type of clothing, both to look at and to shop for and I think there were a few coats in this collection worth a second look – namely the navy with leather lapels worn by Adriana Lima and the bright pink one worn by Imaan Hammam (I adore her). The accessories were strong in this collection as well. Versace is not a brand I’d ever think of for a handbag but perhaps I should open my mind a bit more.

Agnona

To be completely honest, I don’t know very much about this brand. I clicked on the thumbnail because I liked the look of it and ended up liking almost every look in the collection. I am all about elevated basics. I’m here for practicality. I know that can sound terribly boring but I’d rather splurge on something I know I can wear for years to come than a trend piece that you’re better off buying at Topshop. The soft, slightly muted colours were divine and the clothes all looked very soft and feminine. Some looks played with proportions, for example the red look pictured above with the wide sleeves, whereas others were tight and cinched in at the waist. I don’t know about you but I can see a lot of pieces that could be a lot of use to me. That’s what excites me about fashion. Clothes are made to be worn!

Jil Sander

Another collection that I suppose fits in with the minimalist movement. I think you’re either in one camp or another. Maximalists will have enjoyed Gucci, Minimalists will enjoy Jil Sander, some people love both. The white coat with the black buttons reminded me of a doctors outfit but cooler, hence why I liked that. The collection had quite a cool, oversized vibe to it and I love that. I once read about how costume designers used to give Joan Crawford shoulder pads because her shoulders were naturally wide and this collection made me think of that story. She was not afraid to make herself boxier and in the Kardashian, body-con era that we are now in, I think it’s important to remember that slouchy and oversized is fine too. Honestly, I wear both.

And the rest…

I loved the furs at Blumarine, especially the blue oversized one that was the opening look and the long brown one later on.

The embellishments on this golden dress at Ermanno Scervino were so beautiful. I want to see Selena Gomez in this. Also, is that a mini cross body bag or part of the dress? I haven’t managed to see a video yet to see it in motion.

As usual, it was the coats that I liked at Max Mara. This time I especially liked the colour-blocked one and the herringbone one with the matching top.

Turquoise and peach was a colour scheme that ran through the Fendi show, similar to that of Versace. I loved how elegant Julia Nobis looks in this look and how cool Imaan Hammam looks here (I love the stole). However, if I were to buy anything from the collection it would definitely be this coat with a furry collar and trimmings.

Fashion Flashback: Versace Fall 1992

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

This is one of Gianni Versace’s iconic shows. Even if you didn’t know the season or the year, you’ll recognise the images. They’re everywhere. Miss S&M, a very provocative title for a collection, is hard to miss. In fact, its impact can still be seen today. Just last Christmas, Topshop’s campaign images featured Cara Delevingne wearing a dress that was highly inspired by the collection. The lion head necklaces can still be bought in stores today, albeit copies of the originals.

The clothes were uber glamourous with lots of gold hardware and bondage style straps. It was a very sexy type of fashion that only Gianni Versace can do without it looking too vulgar. I actually love it. But most of all, I love the models. I can’t imagine a collection like this working on today’s crop of stars. There is a different body type out there (ultra slim) which the supermodels of the late 80s/early 90s did not fit. Don’t get me wrong, they were slim, but they all had a little something extra – often larger breasts for one. I think the hair and make-up is also stunning, and the colours used are only enhanced by the lighting.

Cara Delevingne's Topshop ads which remind me a lot of this collection, perhaps more toned down.
Cara Delevingne’s Topshop ads which remind me a lot of this collection, perhaps more toned down.

This is a collection that will not be forgotten. It is interesting because I wonder if anybody at the time thought this would happen. If you click through the link further down, you will see a video by Tim Blanks where attendees of the show were interviewed directly after and the reaction wasn’t highly positive. Keep in mind that the AIDS epidemic was at its peak around this time and that promoting sex was shunned as a result. Funny how now, over 20 years later, the clothes could still be worn (and are still worn) like no time has passed. Was Gianni very fashion forward or are we all stuck in the past?

 

See full collection here & Tim Blanks video here.

15 Looks Nicki Minaj Should Wear From The Spring 2016 Collections

Nicki Minaj is a queen. I truly mean that. I feel like she’s someone whose popularity is continuing to soar and I’m so happy about that. Something that I think has boosted her fame is her image overhaul which began around the time she joined American Idol. She stopped wearing the colourful wigs, wild make-up, and out-there outfits, and toned her look down – natural hair, more “normal” make-up, and a mix of high-end designer and fast-fashion clothes. To put it simply, she had a make-under. Whilst I do miss her old sense of style (it was so fun), I think she looks amazing now. For example, the VMA dress was a killer.

I find it fun to try and predict what Nicki is going to wear next, especially because she attends a few fashion shows nowadays and actually works with a brilliant stylist, Rushka Bergman, to create her red-carpet/event looks. There are a few designers who she clearly favours: the Alexanders (Wang & McQueen), namely. I’ll choose looks from designers I know she likes and also ones which I think she would like to be introduced to. I’m going to pick 15 different designers and select looks from their shows which I think she should wear (yes, I’m totally cheating with this post title). When I did this before, I actually got a couple looks spot-on that she wore. I wonder if the same will happen this time.

Also, on the topic of Nicki, read this NY Times profile – it’s amazing.

Jeremy Scott

Nicki used to wear a lot of Jeremy Scott back in the days when she used to dress more kooky and she still does wear a lot of his designs for Moschino. I think she would look great in this checkerboard cardigan, mixed and matched with this printed bikini. I think this would work great for a music video.

Givenchy

Another brand that Nicki seems to be rather fond of, Givenchy is a show which she actually attended in New York (wearing the designer head-to-toe, naturally). There were quite a few looks which stood out to me and I think would work, depending on the occasion. The first would be the dress which Joan Smalls wore – the black gown with the full skirt and fur – which I think would only be appropriate for a grand red carpet event (Oscars, Grammys, Met Gala) but I’m not sure there’s anything coming up soon that this would suit. The cross-over top and skirt combination that Pooja Mor wore would work well for a more casual event, however it isn’t often that you see Nicki in that type of neckline. Finally, I think that the feathered jacket with the bejewelled top and trousers would look insane. Nicki doesn’t often wear trousers to events but I think this could look great. Conversely, the trousers could easily be swapped out for a black pencil skirt. I’d go for Stuart Weitzman’s Nudist shoes in black with all of these looks.

Zac Posen

I’m not sure that Nicki has even worn a lot of Zac Posen but I wish she would – a ball gown would look fabulous. However, the look that I am going to suggest is the black bandeau strapless dress with the full skirt and slight tiers. I think this would look amazing if she had her hair down in a centre-part, a dark red or wine lip, and pointed black suede heels (Manolo Blahnik or Jimmy Choo perhaps).

Burberry

There’s three different looks that I think could work from the Burberry show. The first is the long dress with the full skirt and sheer panels. I think Nicki would wear this firstly because it has transparent sections and therefore it would show off her insane body, and secondly because she has favoured a fuller skirt in the past. I’d also like to see her wear this black coat with gold details. I think this would work for a casual look (perhaps paired with some items from Fashion Nova, a store that she seems to love nowadays). Finally, I think this short taupe dress would work well. As I said before, she used to wear full skirts quite often and this one reminds me of Alexander McQueen dresses which she has been seen wearing before. I think the details on this are so pretty too.

Moschino

As I said before, Nicki likes Moschino. I think it’s a bit of a throwback to the wild outfits she wore when she was first blowing up. I think she’d buy these two t-shirt dresses because they’re both rather funny (the second being a Chanel-logo parody, another brand she’s fond of), maybe the boots, and also this coat. The coat reminded me of the one she wore for a Casio event in New York back in 2012.

Monique Lhuillier

The only time I can remember Nicki wearing Monique Lhuillier before was at the AMAs a few years ago when she wore the bright yellow gown – it was quite a moment. This look I’ve chosen is more casual than a full-on gown. On the runway it is styled with a white top underneath but I propose we remove that and just have the floral crop-top and skirt instead. This is a look that I really really really want to see her in because I can just imagine it looking so brilliant.

Christian Dior

Now that we know that this is Raf’s final collection for Dior, I feel that Nicki needs to wear something from the collection. I mean, who knows what the next collection will be like or who the hell will be designing it? Maybe the floral set was an omen that I missed – taking it full circle. I chose this simple jacket-dress, reminiscent of the infamous Bar Jacket. Hey, you’ve got to try the classics at least once right? Pair it with some tough looking boots and all will be good. I’m thinking something by Saint Laurent or Giuseppe Zanotti.

Balenciaga

Since I didn’t include any mainline Alexander Wang in this list, I thought I’d better include something from his swan song for Balenciaga. I see that next season will be one of change – will Nicki even wear Balenciaga if it isn’t designed by Wang? I opted for this white look with the shaping around the breasts, because I can only imagine that it would look better on someone with fuller breasts than the model – no offence intended, I’m in the small group too. Louis Vuitton

I went for this pink biker jacket from Nicolas’ latest collection. It reminded me of when Nicki used to be like Barbie. If only she’d go for one of the old Barbie necklaces with it. That would make my life. I can imagine her wearing this casually, perhaps shopping, flying, or the likes (I don’t know how she spends her downtime).

Alexander McQueen

Instead of going for one of the flowery, floaty looks from this show I propose something a little different – my favourite look in fact. Jeans and a top. I can see her going for this entire look to be honest. To make it perfect, I’d like black hair in a bun with a fringe, but that may be too much to ask!

Versace

I loved this season’s Versace. Raquel Zimmerman opened it by stomping down the runway in this khaki blazer which I’d love to see Nicki in. I also really like this dress which Gigi Hadid wore but I fear that it might be too associated with her already for someone else to wear it and nobody really wants a “who wore it better?” moment, so I think Natasha Poly’s could be a close alternative.

Oscar de la Renta

This dress was just so pretty that I couldn’t not include it on this list. I can imagine this with a centre-parted wavy hairstyle and matching lipstick. I know Nicki used to favour Oscar so maybe its time she wore something from the brand again.

Altuzarra

My favourite New York designer’s clothes have never been worn by Nicki as far as I know. That should change. I went for this exotic skin coat because I feel like it is her down to a tee – glamorous and luxurious and so fucking expensive. This would be a great introduction to the brand’s clothing.

Anthony Vaccarello

This dress may be pushing the limits a little in terms of how risque Nicki is willing to dress. However, if she’ll push the boundaries this far I’d be impressed. I loved Vaccarello’s show and this was one of my favourite dresses from it.

Ashish

The first thing I’ll say about this is that I suggest hiking the skirt up over the belly button to make it high waisted. I think that would look better (more flattering) and also show less unnecessary stomach. This is one of the looks that I think she’s least likely to wear, but I’ll include it anyway. Oh, and change the shoes too.

So there’s 15 different designers, a few more looks. You’ll probably have noticed that there’s a few major brands who I’ve left out – Balmain, Alexander Wang, and Chanel are just a few – and the reason for this was rather simple: I couldn’t see any looks that I’d put her in. I can guarantee that she’ll wear quite a few pieces from Balmain (she always does), maybe something from T by Alexander Wang or a custom modified runway piece (I couldn’t see any straight-off-the-runway that I’d put her in), and she’ll buy a few bags and maybe shoes from Chanel.

Is there a glaringly obvious look you think I’ve missed? Let me know. Apart from that, I’m fairly confident in my choices. I hope she wears at least one. Ruskha, it’s over to you now.

Milan Fashion Week Highlights – Spring 2016

To quote the Zombies, it’s the time of the season when love runs high – said love being mine towards Italian fashion. We have finally reached Milan (often my favourite city of fashion month). I adore Italian fashion and although I’ve never visited, I adore Italy. I think I definitely look at the country through rose-tinted glasses and just see the beauty – the art, the scenery, the architecture, the people.

Italian fashion usually emphasises glamour but each designer has a different interpretation of this word: Donatella Versace’s is very different than Mr Armani’s. That’s what I look forward to each season, seeing the myriad ways that one can dress and look put-together. There is nothing sloppy about Milan, that is for definite. Perhaps designers who show here have a very consistent image of a woman in mind, even though there are nuances which they do not agree.

I think Milan was a lot different this season than I expected though and perhaps it isn’t my favourite out of the three fashion weeks so far. One thing remains the same though, fashion designers want a woman to look and feel her very best. Isn’t that what fashion is about? Looking good and feeling fine? Another song reference… I hope you caught it.

ERMANNO SCERVINO

Ermanno Scervino was the first collection of Milan that I gasped at. The opening look was so stunning: a twisted halterneck top in pale yellow chiffon, an oversized trench coat in what looks like a cross between a heavy satin and neoprene, and a golden woven pencil skirt. Progressing from this, the collection continued in a similar note –  a duck egg blue coat with the same gold buttons, followed by a dove grey, then a sleeveless version which had a lingerie-like silky playsuit underneath. The chiffon halterneck was also repeated a few times itself, often in different ways (as a dress, underneath dungarees). I got the impression that the designer was trying to show us numerous ways of wearing one piece if you bought it. This dress was so cool, I loved the laser cuts, although the shoes didn’t go at all (but I loved them separately as they seemed very Indian inspired). The fabrics used throughout definitely gave me the impression that lingerie and perhaps a state of undress was on the designer’s mind, and actually a lot of designers during fashion month so far – lots of lace, satin, and silk. There was a full range of daywear and eveningwear with the collection giving the overall idea that this could work for all occasions and that there was something for everyone. I did like an awful lot of it, although I thought a couple of outfits were a little too Miu Miu to be on this runway.

VERSACE

You could tell after Raquel Zimmerman took her first steps onto the runway that this Versace collection would be worth paying attention to. Wearing a dark green blazer which was sharply belted with a black and camel belt featuring the medusa head in the centre, and a killer tri-colour bag in one hand, Raquel looked insane. It continued on a positive note and was an introduction to a military-esque boyish cool that you don’t often associate with Versace. I couldn’t actually pin a brand on these looks, but I know that I want to be a part of it. I loved the peep-toe shoes too which were also made to be clumpy and more masculine than you’d think a peep-toe would be. I also loved the bags. Versace is a brand I don’t often look at for accessories and I can’t think of a handbag of theirs which is carried as much as some other brands (think Celine and Givenchy mainly) but I really loved a lot of these ones. The camo print continued for a while but in bright tones. I adore these shorts which aren’t camo printed but continue in the same vein of colour. Honestly, if I had to summarise this collection in one phrase I’d say “New York”. Don’t you agree? The best Versace collection in a long time, Bravo Donatella!

DOLCE & GABBANA

The duo did what they do best, they celebrated Italy. Dolce & Gabbana are perhaps the most Italian of all of the designers that show in Milan, purely because they make clothes that could even be thought of as stereotypical. I think that is because they make clothes for what they think is the perfect Italian family. Unfortunately some of the comments made by the designers about what a traditional family is got them in a lot of trouble and this is the first collection that they’ve shown since. Judging by the turnout and online coverage, this hasn’t affected the brand much at all. This season, they showed their national pride, embroidering the names of cities on dresses and little images of men on gondolas and gladiators even! As usual, it was a beautiful, if not repetitive, collection. I don’t mind that from Dolce & Gabbana but I often do from other brands (double standards and rather ridiculous, I know). The models taking selfies whilst walking down the runway was a fun touch and actually produced some brilliant snaps, lots of which were shared to Instagram. I have to say though, if you looked at this collection in 10 years time, you probably wouldn’t be able to identify the season it is from based on the fact that it isn’t dissimilar to anything from 2011-present day. I’m a sucker for the brand though so I still love it.

And the rest…

I want Fausto Puglisi to take over at Versus Versace. I think I’ve said this before but his work reminds me so much of Gianni’s and I think that would work fabulously for the brand, although Vaccarello works too. I did love a lot of pieces from this collection although they gave me slight Balmain vibes at times. I want these two dresses, this one with the boots included (a birthday look perhaps) and also this dress.

I hate to say it but I haven’t got caught up in the Alessandro Michele hype. I prefer Frida’s Gucci. However, I did love this gauzy pink dress and also this trousers and belt combination. I bet that platforms will be back in a big way soon too.

Alberta Ferretti’s collection was stunning. It reminded me of sand dunes. The colour palette was so pretty and the clothes were floaty and girly. It was a more feminine version of your typical safari collection. This dress looks insane on Imaan Hammam and I love these looks – x (such cool sandals, I hope they trickle down to the high street by next summer), y, z.

I adore this emerald green trench coat at Emilio Pucci, but I miss the prints already.

MaxMara had lots of slouchy oversized jackets with a slight nautical theme – a far cry from the tousled glamour of Marilyn Monroe last season. I thought the wrongly buttoned-up jackets were a fun styling trick, meant to look effortless I’m assuming. I really liked this jacket and also this blazer (I have a similar one at home so I can easily recreate this if I want).

The very lady-like nature of Luisa Beccaria’s collection took me back to the aristocratic upper-class depicted in Baroque art. Think of the woman in Fragonard’s The Swing and the likes of her social set. I think it was the hats combined with the long, floaty dresses which gave me this connotation, but this collection is much more modern. These outfits are my favourites: x, y, z.

This dress at Antonio Marras reminded me of an enchanted forest. It is what I’d put Snow White in if I were making a new film adaptation.

When I look at a Prada collection I have to look at individual pieces instead of the whole show or I become overwhelmed. Miuccia puts so much out there and sometimes I struggle to comprehend it all. I liked how the skirts were layered, the stripes were clear, and the materials sheer – that was what I gathered from it all. Individually, I like the jacket and skirt  from this look, the coat and earrings from this one, and the entire outfit worn by Mica.

Karl Lagerfeld played with proportions at Fendi, demonstrated best in the oversized puffy sleeves of this khaki top which has a nice wrap-over front and this little playsuit is cute too. However, I don’t think the bloomer-type bottoms will catch on.

I really liked Costume National and actually seen a few pieces that I’d buy if I seen in a store – for example, this dress.

The hats made the show at Jil Sander, with this look being my favourite.

Milan Fashion Week Highlights – Fall 2015

I am fascinated by Italy at the moment. I’m taking an art history class, mainly focused on the Renaissance, and it has me urging to visit. The beautiful paintings, architecture, and sculptures created in the many regions of the country are so very inspiring. So if Italy is the birthplace of the Renaissance, and art is so ingrained in Italian culture, it only makes sense that they excel at fashion – you know, the wearable type of art.

To be honest, it is Milan Fashion Week that gets me most excited. I feel an affinity with Italy, a place I have never even travelled to, and I adore Italian fashion. Just think, they have the best fashion magazine (Vogue Italia), some of the most stunning models (Bianca Balti, Monica Belluci, and Carla Bruni to name a few), and many of the top brands (Prada, Versace, Fendi, and so many more). I always struggle to whittle down my Milan review to something short enough that people would actually want to read; I could go on and on for thousands of words. So let’s hope this season is no different. I’m writing this introduction on the 25th, so the first day of the collections, and so far I’ve only seen a few images from Gucci. I can hardly wait to see what the rest of the week brings!

MAX MARA

Before I seen any images from this collection, I saw the inspiration board and I knew it was going to be a winner. It was full of photos of Marilyn Monroe, from the one of her on the beach wrapped up in an aztec cardigan, to one with her and Arthur Miller frolicking in the sand, and many more. I love Marilyn. I think she is one of the unsung style icons of the 20th century. Yes, she is an icon for sure, but her personal style is often ignored. For example, her most well-known look is probably the white halterneck Travilla dress that she wore in the Seven Year Itch for the infamous subway-blowing-up-skirt shot. This collection has captured more than that. It is full of soft, chunky knits, cosy camel coats (a MaxMara staple), and wonderful skirt suits. The clothes are the type that you’d want to touch, that if you were wearing you’d nuzzle your sleeve against your cheek to comfort yourself. I want to dress like this everyday, maybe minus the shiny quilted pieces though… Also, the hair and make-up was stunning, so easy to recreate as well. PS – I love this bag.

FENDI

First and foremost, Fendi is a furrier. That is what their business was built on, and that is what it continues to be known for to this day. Each collection, fur is incorporated and it is often used in many different ways. As trims, as lining, as the main piece itself, as a bag – you name it, they’ve done it. The patchwork coats in this collection were brilliant, as were the bags, and that one fur dress… Karl Lagerfeld often produces, in my opinion, better work at Fendi than he does at Chanel, something that I find interesting considering that a lot of people don’t know that he designs at both. People say it is the collaboration with the Fendi family that makes his work better, or more so that it is their work. Either way, I like this collection. They played with proportions, with oversized pea coats and big puffy furs. Also, a wonderful graphic print was created to look like patchwork, or a grid – it reminded me slightly of YSL’s Mondrian print but without the clear block lines – I just love it, I want it, I need it.

VERSACE

Ok, I admit it. I love it. I want to be a Versace women. They are confident and ooze sex appeal, a bit odd considering some of the models who were less than bombshells. But maybe that is what Versace is about? Making everyone look sexy, regardless of their body type. The big belts, the signature Greek print, the mid-thigh high boots, the choker spelling out V-E-R-S-A-C-E: everything was brilliant and I’m struggling to fault it. I could’ve done without the hashtags and @ signs, but perhaps that is just reflective of our digital age. Donatella has somehow made puffy jackets look good (and I hate puffy jackets normally), made obvious branding that was very 90s look up-to-date (Versace written right across the chest, for example), and made very Gianni style dresses that look just as good on Natasha Poly now as they did on Christy and co. in the early 90s.

DOLCE & GABBANA

It’s no surprise that this is on my list. It always is. To put it simply, I love the brand. I could gush on and on about them for hours, but basically their brand and their ideal woman is everything I want to be: sexy (but not in a trashy way), confident, elegant, motherly (you know, for that time waaaaay into the future), Italian. To me, they embody Italian fashion and nobody does it better. This collection was a celebration of motherhood, something that is very Italian. Stereotypically, Italian men are mama’s boys and interestingly, a large proportion of the population live at home until they are married. Family is important, and women even more so. I can’t talk about this collection without giving a nod to Angelina Jolie’s wedding dress, Versace-designed, which has to have been a jump-off point for this collection. It features drawings similar to what Angelina had on her wedding dress (done by her kids) on many of the dresses and skirts in the collection, but there was also definitely a Madonna and child vibe going on with this collection. Furthermore, a very-pregnant Bianca Balti walked, and still managed to look stunning. She definitely isn’t like any pregnant women I know! Also, look how happy this little girl looks, it’s so cute. Overall it was a stunning collection which featured many of the Dolce & Gabbana signatures that we have come to expect: lace, florals, and well cut dresses that accentuate the body in the best way possible. Viva La Mamma!

 GIORGIO ARMANI

This was a collection of epic length, 85 looks in total – some of which looked slightly repetitive. However, overall I’m a fan. Giorgio Armani presented one of my favourite collections at Spring 2015 Couture Week, and he has done the same again. It all looks so wearable, a word that lots of people use as a criticism. I don’t see how you can criticise something for being commercial since fashion is, first and foremost, a business. The companies need to make things that will sell or they will cease to exist. I don’t think I’m someone who lives for a theatrical collection: I enjoy watching them, but I rarely adore the clothes. I’m all for practicality. The print on the trousers of the first look were almost watercolour, they had a fluidity and made the trousers appear to swish as the model walked, even more than they did naturally. Moreover, this fur jumper looked so cosy, and the interesting hybrid of skirt and trousers (I’d say better than the skort) added something a little more to a look that could’ve been so basic. Armani already has a similar pair of trousers out just now, although the skirt is less pronounced as it is just a crossover flap at the front (linked), from his collezioni line.

And the rest…

Alessandro Michele’s debut at Gucci was fine, but I didn’t love it. This fur coat was stunning but I thought there were a few things wrong with the rest of the collection: 1) the ugly glasses that the models all wore, 2) the horribly un-diverse cast that was just so glaringly obvious, and 3) the prints (x & y) that looked too Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2014 for my liking – yes, they were slightly different, sans owls and also pleated, but they looked very similar, so much so that I thought they were identical when I was browsing through the thumbnails.

Fausto Puglisi was very Versace. I’m surprised they don’t get him in to design a Versus collection. His work has the ability to take you back to the Gianni days, which is not to say that the designer is derivative but he is clearly influenced. The gold accents on skirts and dresses, and the super-sexy cuts are classic Puglisi, and I just adore this dress. Also, the coral jewellery was insane and was said to be inspired by Loulou de la Falaise, the iconic YSL muse. I’m waiting to see Nicki Minaj in this dress.

Luisa Beccaria’s collection gave me post-war, high society woman vibes. Just look at the sleeves on this top, how amazing.

Alberta Ferretti’s collection was very different from last season’s ethereal, delicate pinks and flowers. This time around it was all about folk and fairytales. It made me feel like I should be in the middle of a forest with Goldilocks and the three bears, or something along those lines. This dress that Aya Jones wore was beautiful, or maybe it is just Aya that makes anything look good. Furthermore, this dress looked like a painting – so stunning.

I loved the all-black palette at Costume National. This look, in particular, was minimalism at its finest, but let’s be clear, it wasn’t normcore. Normcore equals boring, minimalism equals sophistication.

I don’t even know if this is a coat or a dress, it probably could be both, but I love it. The colour is so gorgeous. This was at Blumarine.

Prada is making me feel conflicted. On one hand, I don’t love it and I think the reason for that is because I spent so long trawling the archives and falling in love with old collections (collections which this one looks nothing like…). On the other hand, it is pretty and feminine, and the use of the double-faced jersey to look like neoprene was pretty damn cool, but is it anything more than that? Prada’s sales have been stagnant recently so perhaps that is why this collection is a little bit safer than usual. One thing can be guaranteed though, come the September issues and this collection will be in all the magazines; it always is, so why would things be any different this year? I love these looks (x, y & z).

Jeremy Scott at Moschino was, as expected, fun. I think I’ve now realised that you can’t take it seriously, it’s all for amusement. It started with some puffa coats, then transitioned into Looney Tunes prints, then some blingy-denim, then teddy bears galore, ending with graffiti print gowns (which I loved). However, my favourite part of the collection was the teddy bear backpacks as they were just like the perfume bottle. You can get a vintage backpack on Etsy just now for around £420. I can’t wait to see this collection in editorials to be honest; fashion editors have a way of making Moschino look really good in print. And yes, you can shop the capsule collection already.

Max Mara’s sister brand Sportmax showcased a beautiful collection, full of wearable pieces. I love these two looks (x & y).

Roberto Cavalli was classic Cavalli, complete with leopard print and plunging necklines. I can’t wait to see Nicki Minaj in this collection, especially as she is the current face of the brand. I hope she wears this dress.

I think I’ve found a potential wedding gown at Ermanno Scervino, modelled by Jessica Stam who has walked a select few shows for the past couple of seasons. Look at the gown though, stunning!  

The opening look at Trussardi was insane. It was a chocolate-brown leather coat, complemented perfectly by a lipstick in a similar shade. I really liked most of this collection to be honest, very wearable, unfussy clothes for everyday life.

Finally, I urge you to look at the Ter et Bantine collection as it is brilliant.

Fashion Flashback: Versace Spring 2008

This is one of my favourite Versace shows ever. It is Donatella at her finest and the Versace woman at her best. There are few words that can adequately describe this show besides sexy, a word that I detest but find so fitting for this occasion. Everything was flowy and free, silky and luxurious; leather was used without looking tough; the colour palette ranged from nudes to bright colours. And I can’t forget to mention the hair: bouncy and brilliant, it is the ultimate goal.
What I find disappointing however is the lack of model diversity, an issue we are still struggling with 7 years later: out of the entire cast there were zero black girls. However, the models that were there were really the best of the best – the mid-2000s girls who we all feel nostalgic for made an appearance: Snejana, Mariacarla, Kasia (in her debut season), Carmen, Natasha, Vlada, Tanya D, and, unforgettably, Sasha Pivovarova with her drunken-classic walk.

Below are my favourite looks from the show and also some (there were quite a few) of the campaign images from that season starring Gisele Bundchen.

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Note: I am beginning a new series of posts entitled Fashion Flashback which will include videos of shows that I love and want to share with people. They will obviously be older shows, ie. more than 2 years old, that I think are important. I am not going to try and over-analyse the shows because that has been done countless times, I just want to appreciate them for their beauty and aesthetics.