Tag: w magazine

Weekly Words: 23rd September 2017

How the Red Carpet Became a Runway – W Magazine

I loved this video from W Magazine about how the red carpet has evolved over the years, from stars wearing pieces borrowed from film studios costume departments in its infancy to having custom created looks and couture-style pieces nowadays.

“The Trouble with Topshop” – BoF Professional Exclusive

Kate Moss for Topshop

Being in the US, I didn’t realize that Topshop was having any issues, just because I haven’t been in any of their British stores to notice any changes or read any British newspapers which tend to cover the Arcadia group in great detail. According to this BoF article, Topshop is not faring well in comparison to H&M and Zara who have taken over the British high street and offer cheaper and often more fashionable styles. They are also facing high competition from e-commerce sites like Boohoo & Missguided which are even cheaper and have a wider, more global reach than Topshop have managed to successfully achieve. I didn’t realize this when I was initially looking at London Fashion Week images but Topshop Unique is no longer, with the line now being called Topshop London Fashion Week. The price points are lower and the styles will be less exclusive than the Unique line was, in an attempt to capture a younger customer once again who were slightly outpriced by the Unique line in the past. This season’s show was the last collection designed by Kate Phelan, former British Vogue editor turned Creative Director of the line, whose work I always admired and found to be very on the pulse of what women actually want to wear. That was the merit of Topshop Unique. She has been replaced by a Swede, David Hagglund, who is now in charge of both Topshop and Topman. A new head of merchandising has been hired too. I was on Topshop’s website a few days ago and whilst looking at the shoes I found myself getting annoyed at all of the strange angles of the shoes and I felt like I couldn’t get an immediate image of what the shoe actually looked like, instead focusing on a zip on the inside of your foot or a really random angle. I hope that this is not part of the new strategy because, in my opinion, it doesn’t make for a good shopping experience. I’ll be interested to see how things take shape going forward, if any design / stylistic changes are immediately apparent once Phelan departs.

“At Italian Vogue, A New Beginning” – The New York Times

This article about Emanuele Farneti, Vogue Italia’s Editor-in-Chief who replaced the late, beloved Franca Sozzani at the beginning of the year, was a great profile of the man who I think is shaping up to become a fantastic Editor-in-Chief. This year brought many changes to the world of fashion, especially in the print magazine sector with the untimely death of Sozzani, the resignation of Alexandra Shulman, EIC of British Vogue since before I was even born, and many departures and new arrivals stateside as discussed in a previous Weekly Words. Sozzani was replaced by Farneti and Shulman was replaced by Edward Enninful, longtime W Magazine editor and one of the fashion industry’s most beloved stylists. The arrival of these two new editors brought in a big change in the sense that it was the first time any men had been in charge of Vogue. Both of their appointments were rather historic. Enninful is yet to publish an issue that he has edited – December is slated to be his first – but Farneti has been working at Vogue Italia for months now, producing a couple of really memorable covers from the start. The first I recall was the e-commerce themed cover, which I wrote a piece about a few months back, and then also Bella Hadid’s retro-inspired cover which featured the most beautiful colors in such dreamy tones. The whole gist of the New York Times profile is that Farneti, unlike most of the other EIC’s, is very low-key. There is no paparazzi frenzy surrounding him. He lives a normal life with a wife and two children. His approach to both life, and editing, is very different than others in his role. Interestingly enough, he has worked in various facets of publishing – menswear, sports, and womenswear – before landing at Italian Vogue. He was an unlikely choice for many, but, I think, so far, he has proven to be a good one.

The September Issues 2016

Now that we are finally in September, I’m going to showcase my personal favourites from fashion publications all around the globe. I decided to wait until August was over so I could look at all of the magazines that came out and judge them all instead of posting prematurely when we were still waiting on images being released. For example, Vogue Italia doesn’t come out until the very end of the month. Anyway, see this year’s picks below:

1 – W Magazine

Rihanna for W Magazine
Rihanna for W Magazine – Alternative Cover

Photographer: Steven Klein

Stylist: Edward Enninful

Make Up: Pat McGrath

This is badass. As soon as I seen it I was obsessed. I think I actually commented on Edward Enninful’s Instagram (and I never comment on famous people). So incredible. The lighting, the jewels, the regal pose. Rihanna is a better model than half of the models working today. She is truly an icon.

2 – Harper’s Bazaar USA

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Kimye for Harper’s Bazaar

Photographer: Karl Lagerfeld

Stylist: Carine Roitfeld

Normally I hate Kimye as a couple, but recently I have come around to them. I actually don’t mind Kim anymore. She seems sweet. She won my support by sticking up for her husband against Taylor Swift. I always thought that Kanye just wanted to mould Kim into her perfect little doll and I found it odd but I think there is probably more to their relationship than that. Plus, they have the cutest kids. And finally, the interview is funny. That can excuse the lack of actual fashion on the cover (like, there is literally no jewellery even, how is this ok with the advertisers?).

3 – Vogue Australia

Selena Gomez for Vogue Australia

Photographer: Emma Summerton

Stylist: Sally Lyndley

I’m loving Selena Gomez in Louis Vuitton. I think her style evolution should be commended. I like the colours on this cover and I definitely think it will stand out amongst all of the other magazines on the shelf.

4 – InStyle USA

Kerry Washington for InStyle

Photographer: Thomas Whiteside

This cover has actually received quite a few negative comments online but I like it. For one, the font is great (very Woody Allen). Visually, the cover is so pretty and soft and the lipstick looks great. Plus it’s Kerry Washington and I love her.

5 – Vogue Russia

Irina Shayk for Vogue Russia

Photographer: Mert & Marcus

I actually think this is the hottest photo I’ve ever seen; Irina Shayk has undeniable sex appeal. The colourful masthead tones the cover down in a way, and I think that may be necessary. Plus, her hair looks amazing. I really like this.

 

And the rest…

I didn’t really like the cover of Vogue Paris but the editorial that accompanied it was actually very beautiful. Both Taylor Hill & Bella Hadid are stunning models. Also, I really liked the Back to Black editorial.

I didn’t hate the actual cover image of American Vogue but I didn’t like the casting, nor did I like the tagline used. I’m so bored of the whole focus being on social media (the same goes for VP’s Instagram Generation line). The jacket on the cover was pretty cool but I didn’t find the cover impressive. My pick would’ve been Winona Ryder. She’s beautiful, mature (and more appropriately aged given the actual readership of the magazine), and once again relevant due to Stranger Things on Netflix.

I was hoping for more from Vogue Italia, purely because I waited so long to see the cover. I’m not sure what I would’ve preferred but I just didn’t like the cover image. It isn’t something I’d stop and look at on the newsstand.

St Elmo’s Fire, Eighties Fashion, and Today’s Minimalism

The 80s was the decade that produced, in my opinion, some of the best films of all time. Honestly, it’s just the kitsch factor. I love the costumes, the set design, the soundtracks, the colours, the carefree characters. Think of all the amazing apartments that you’ve seen in an 80s movie or all the fun that the characters have that you wish you could be a part of. It is pure escapism into a time gone by, a time that we will never get back. This is pre-iPhone, pre-social media, pre-mass use of internet even!

St Elmo’s Fire wasn’t actually a great film. There wasn’t much going on in it and there was no real moral of the story, or reason for even making the film. However, the one thing that I really took away from it was how insanely good Demi Moore looked. Although her character was meant to be coked up throughout the entire movie she still wore some great, quintessential eighties outfits and looked damn good doing so.

I’m feeling slight Holly Golightly vibes in the top right photo

The satin strapless dress she wore dancing made the think of Hedi Slimane’s last collection for Saint Laurent. I’m currently loving the editorials that have accompanied this collection as I think they so perfectly capture a mood, a fun excessive nature that I wish we could go back to, and I find it incredible how stylists are managing to pull together so many pieces that have the same vibe and work together – Vogue Paris’ August 2016 cover and the accompanying editorial is a good example. It’s really incredible to see.

Vogue Paris August 2016 – shot by David Sims. I found the styling of this to be very 80s, right down to the slight blurring effect on the photo. Very Chris von Wangenheim (see below).

After the shift towards minimalism in the 90s until the mid-2000s when prints and colour erupted again, we have once again reached the place in the cycle where minimalism reigns. We mostly wear black and neutrals. We don’t wear shiny satin or fake pearls or crimp our hair. Where is the fun? Watching movies set in the 80s makes me wish I was a teenager during that time, or even a young graduate, so I could dress like that and not give a damn how ridiculous I looked. I want the shoulder pads, the comically oversized proportions, the satin, the hairstyles, the costume jewellery, the long gloves (or even fingerless ones), the cool attitude. Who will have the same effect on teenagers’ style nowadays as Madonna did in the 80s? Rihanna?

I’m assuming there will be a move away from minimalism fairly soon. The most recent round started in, I’m going to estimate, 2011/2012? Therefore perhaps in another few years we will be taking a walk on the wild side. All I know is that when I’m old and I look at photos of myself in my twenties, I want to be dressed in a way that I will think was so cool and exciting. Right now I just dress boring, because that’s where we are at right now. I do love the clothes I have and I love minimalism, but deep down inside I long for more. Maybe Hedi’s final collection’s influence will be real and widespread, but I think minimalism still has another few years left before it fades. Gucci is helping too, although aesthetically I don’t enjoy the clothing.

Gia Carangi shot by Chris von Wangenheim, late 1970s

There is a true connection between politics and fashion. Fashion cannot exist in a vacuum. It is a reflection on the world. When times are tough, style evolves. When times are good, normally economically, style stays stagnant. Often the most over-the-top, excessive designs come about when economies are on a downturn. It’s almost like a rebellion against it, or even merely a distraction. Balmain rose to popularity once again during the Great Recession of 2008. Christophe Decarnin’s bejewelled rocker get-ups soared in popularity. The excesses of the 80s came about at a time when Ronald Reagan was president and America was facing a series of budget cuts which affected the average citizen. The AIDS epidemic broke out and was ignored by the President, and during that time fashion became increasingly flamboyant. With the upcoming Presidential election in America and the impending exit of Obama, what will happen to fashion? Will there be a knock-on effect? Perhaps it won’t be pronounced straight away as often subtle changes take a while to become apparant, but maybe in 5 years time we will look back to 2017 (assuming changes begin after the new president is inaugurated) as the year that everything changed again. The cycle keeps on going, the world keeps on spinning.

Saint Laurent Fall 2016
Saint Laurent Fall 2016

The September Issues – 2015 Edition

Sorry I’ve had this in my drafts for a few weeks and I kept forgetting to schedule it! It is slightly late, but better late than never, huh?


 

The time has once again come: the September Issues. Famed by the documentary of the same name, this annual issue is often the biggest and best of the year – or at least that’s what the editors hope for. The magazines are thick with adverts, showcasing the latest looks of the new season (and I have to admit, I do love a good fashion ad as much as I do an editorial), and full of interviews, articles, and editorials. I only have subscriptions to three magazines – British Vogue, Elle UK, and Vanity Fair – although I often buy more magazines in September. I’m going to do a little round up of my favourite covers, let me know if you agree!

I’ve been holding off on posting this as I was waiting for the Vogue Italia cover to come out as I just assumed it would be on my list, but actually I’m not a fan. It just wasn’t what I was hoping for. I’m not the biggest Lexi Boling fan nor am I that into this season’s Prada. To me, it looked like a continuation of the ad campaign rather than an entirely new concept because the styling was pretty much the same.

Sadly for me, I wasn’t entirely in love with any of the September issues that I’ve purchased. I don’t know if I’m just not into the trends that they’re pushing this season or if it’s the fact that full runway looks in editorials are boring (I know some brands have a contract which says you can’t mix their clothes with other brands so perhaps that’s why). Either way, I just feel like what I anticipated this season to be like, based on the runway shows in February, isn’t what it is like in the magazines.

VOGUE RUSSIA

Shot by Patrick Demarchelier
Shot by Patrick Demarchelier

For her 49th cover on her native Russia’s Vogue, Natasha Poly wears Louis Vuitton. I really like the burnt orange background as it ties in well with the colours of the coat.

W MAGAZINE

Shot by Steven Meisel
Shot by Steven Meisel

I’m not the biggest fan of Gigi Hadid, purely because of her Instagram fame (which is all magazines seem to focus on nowadays), but she looks stunning in this photo which is kind-of different and daring for a September cover – you can barely see the clothes, for one – and she also has the greatest hair ever. Also the shots inside the magazine are so dreamy (linked via tfs).

LOVE MAGAZINE 

Anna Cleveland shot by Juergen Teller
Shot by Juergen Teller

Ok so technically this is the “fall” issue as opposed to September, but I thought I’d include it still. I adore Anna Cleveland. I love watching her career grow, walking Chanel couture, doing campaigns for Lanvin and Bottega Veneta, and, increasingly, editorials in a range of magazines. This cover is fun and I love the colours, my only criticism being it seems more spring than fall to me. Plus, Anna is just her mother’s double and being the daughter of a fashion legend and catwalk queen can’t hurt.

VOGUE US

Shot by Mario Testino

I think we can all agree that Beyonce is the queen of the entire world. It’s funny because I never really expected her to be on the cover because really I was expecting someone a little more bland, but I think she looks wonderful. I really wonder how well it will sell and if the cover look will sell too – I didn’t love it on the Marc Jacobs runway but Beyonce looks insane in it, but she always does, right? My one criticism is the wet hair. I hate that look and the only time I’ve seen it in person is when someone is running late in the morning, completely unintentionally.

L’OFFICIEL PARIS

Elizabeth Olsen by Todd Cole
Elizabeth Olsen by Todd Cole

What can I say? I’m a fan of all of the Olsens. I think Elizabeth looks so beautiful. I’d like to transplant her hair onto my head. Usually I find a grey background rather dull but I think it actually works in this case. Everything seems so tied together.

V MAGAZINE

Lana Del Rey by Steven Klein

I adore Lana. This photoshoot was just so her and I think she stays true to her look – cat eyes, Priscilla Presley hair, and pouty lips. She often seems to bring a glamour to images that many people fail to conjure up nowadays, but when you see candid photos she seems just like a regular girl. It really shows the power of the camera.

Best of 2014 – All Fashion Editorials

In the increasingly online world, actual paper publications face threat. With the mass of online magazines and blogs ruling the web, it seems unlikely that magazines will remain in print. However, fashion magazines appear to remain triumphant. The mass of editorials doesn’t seem to have slowed in the past few years, even though the digital world dominates. Luckily, due to the internet, people share images in a way that could not be done decades ago. For that reason, I (and all others) have access to fashion editorials from publications all over the world. Language is not a barrier in terms of editorials as it is purely visual. Like my previous post on the Best of 2014 – Vogue Editorials, I am doing a similar thing here and compiling what I consider to be the best of the rest. Enjoy!

Elle UK

“Collections SS14 Road/Shadow”

Model – Cameron Russell

Photographer – Kai Z Feng

Stylist – Anne-Marie Curtis

See full editorial – Road.

See full editorial – Shadow.

Vogue Germany

“Poly Pur”

Model – Natasha Poly

Photographer – Luigi & Iango

Stylist – Patti Wilson

See full editorial here.

Vogue Netherlands

“Super Lara”

Model – Lara Stone

Photographer – Angelo Pennetta

Stylist – Sara Moonves

See full editorial here.

W Magazine

“Field Day”

Models – Sasha Luss, Marina Nery, Malaika Firth & Juliana Schurig

Photographer – Craig McDean

Stylist – Edward Enninful

See full editorial here.

Vogue Russia

“Black Mark”

Model – Vivien Solari

Photographer – Emma Tempest

Stylist – Camilla Pole

See full editorial here.

i-D Magazine

“What an absolute beauty!”

Model – Imaan Hammam

Photographer – Zoe Ghertner

Stylist – Tracey Nicholson

See full editorial here.

Vogue Japan

“La Canzone Del Mare”

Models – Nadja Bender & Dalianah Arekion

Photographer – Boo George

Stylists – Anna Dello Russo & Giovanna Battaglia

See full editorial here.

“Tokyo Love”

Model – Naomi Campbell

Photographer – Nobuyoshi Araki

Stylist – Anna Dello Russo

See full editorial here.

So that is it for another year. Hopefully the new year brings in some exciting new things in fashion. For one, I can’t wait to see Prada Spring 2015 in print. I’m also looking forward to, hopefully, seeing some new faces in terms of models or have some old favourites return (Snejana, Gemma?). What is your favourite editorial? Have I missed it?